Hey Lady

Hey Lady.

California movie star! 

Beautiful. Perfect. Welcome.

A face without freckles is like a night's sky without stars.

Hello your majesty.

Do you need a body guard? 

This is the second time I've seen you today; the first time you were in my dreams.

Then of course there were lots of variations of "let's go grab a drink," "call me tonight," and "you're beautiful." Seriously. This is worse than Italy.

Of course when they are trying to sell you something it's just the kick off to the cultural past time of pazarlik (bargaining). And here at the markets there is no time to catch up to the learning curve!

Kapalı Carşı (The Grand Bazaar)

This is one of the oldest and largest covered bazaars in the world, and wandering around it is worse than using an out of date GPS map in downtown Naples. Even when the traffic patterns keep changing on account of road work!

After the Ottoman invasion in 1453, Sultan Mehemet II established the bazaar in which cloth and textiles were originally sold by nomadic peoples. Over the years other markets joined near to form the large complex seen today, although the distinct areas for various merchandise still remains, it is a little blurry with many vendors branching into general touristy crap. 

We probably only covered 10% of the place on account of being directionally challenged. It's tough for someone who relies on landmarks to know where she is when every other booth looks the same! And before you start passing judgement on my "being directionally challenged" statement, I'd like to explain that there's about 4,000 stalls tucked along the 61 streets and it's so big that you can spot it from the air. Plus the distractions of pretty lights, soft scarves, and guys calling out "hey lady" adds to your level of stress. And as if that's not enough...you don't want to look to much at the vendors or the items because then the "hey lady" turns into "looking is free" which then results in feeling terrible as you walk away and you know they are still speaking to you, even if it's not in a language you understand. We did see various sections: jewelry, textiles, ceramics, clothes, & general tourist stuffs.

My case in point? I was looking for a gift for one of my friends. A booth looked promising and so I was led to an itty bitty room with thousands of scarves. When I didn't see anything that would work we thanked them for their time and left. Well, we tried. "Ali", my soon-to-be Turkish boyfriend, offered to show us jijim. Um what?

Dangit Katie, why do you always want to learn about things?

And that's how we ended up sitting on the couch and beautiful woven blankets were spread out, all over the room.  "Ali" showed us the various "California Party Blankets" as we sipped hot apple tea. Jijim are from Anatolia and still handmade by women using looms. They are often made as part of a bride's hope chest and as such, often two matching ones are made- one to take and one to leave at home with her family. All are unique depending on the region and woman creating them. And they are beautiful!

Between sharing his family's story, the culture of these blankets we learned that "Ali" had lived in New York, and then asked if I was a lawyer because it's clear I am a strong woman. Really? Well, he was a lawyer out there (allegedly) until he moved back home to help with the family business of the 6 carpet shops, a few restaurants, and a hotel.

When I asked about the stack of fabric still on the shelf he showed me the beautiful silk squares of fabric. I laughed and made a comment that  my dog would get on it and ruin it. Hey, why should I be totally honest with the guy? I bet he wasn't 100% honest with me! Turns out he has a cat. That sleeps with him every night. And then he showed me the pattern of the one he's had for 13 years on his bed, and offered to show it to us if we came over to his house. Ha. Lawyer turned business man? Deadly combination.

After over a hour sitting, making small talk, flirting, trying not to totally insult him on making him drop the price but not paying nearly what he wanted me to for the 4 items we reached a price and drinks later at his restaurant. Oops. Totally didn't keep that date but it knocked another $50 off the price.

Even after the sale we sat and chatted over another round of apple tea, took pictures, and heard more about the life of a millionaire in Istanbul. Oh and I learned his real name is Sela. See? I told you I didn't think he was telling us the truth! His business card did in fact show a longer name but it started with Sela, so I guess we were finally in that point of our relationship I could learn his real name? 

As we got up to leave he presented me with a scarf he picked out to match my outfit. Aw, apparently I either made an impression, he was happy to have made his first sale of the day, or, most likely, I didn't do as good as I thought I had. Oh well. I love what I got and am happy with the price I paid for the items and all the entertainment I had along the way. Sometimes the best souvenirs from a trip isn't the item but the story behind the item- you know?

We continued walking through the market for some time after, basking in all the attention, trying to figure out what else we needed. After asking a million people about the lamps I finally settled on one...partly out of exhausting of playing the "Let's Make a Deal" game, but mostly because I couldn't remember where the booth was with the green one I liked so much! 

Mısır Çarşısı (The Egyptian/Spice Bazaar)

Round two of our market shopping lead us to the Spice Market with a list of booth numbers we had read about and a rough idea about the L-shaped building filled with vendors selling spices, dried fruit, and lokum (Turkish delight). 

Much calmer than the Grand Bazaar, the Egyptian Market has only been around since 1660. It was originally constructed as part of the nearby mosque to help fund the upkeep of the mosque. The name, Egyptian Market, comes from the fact that many of the items sold in the market were routed through Cario.

We walked up and down the market most of the vendors had the same bins and piles of spices- and giving us samples which turned out to be our lunch this afternoon. Our first stop was booth #51 where we tasted several spice options but ended up walking out with various types of tea: Istanbul tea, apple tea, anit-stress tea, spicy tea. Oh and a 1/2 kilo of lokum for the coworkers (that's still sitting on my desk unopened....oops.)  

We stopped in a several booths within the market, but I think we had more success on the surrounding street, outside the actual market structure. This is where I scored on some curry powder and spicy meat seasoning at a fraction of the price it was being sold for inside. My favorite part of this booth? When I said I was from California, they guy said "California almonds" as he pointed to the bin of almonds. 

Hands down the experience of this market was the last booth we hit. A tiny older man pulled us in and just started handing us pinches of various spices after listing off about 15 states for some reason. The first one he handed us was the Istanbul seasoning which from what I could tell consists of peppers, oregano, parsley, salt, paprika and some things along that line. It sure packed a punch! Our next sample? I wish I had a recording of this because even with each time I retell it, I can't help but laugh and then really question my rationale for going along with it...

Vendor: Here, try this. He extends his index finger with a tiny clear crystal on it. 
Me: Um, what is it?
Vendor pushing it onto the palm of my hand: Lemon salt
Me looking at Marlene to make sure she knows what's going on I cautionsly try it: It is salt! And it's very lemon flavored. Marlene, you've got to try this! 

Turns out you can use this salt for just about anything: fish, salad, soup, meat, gin & tonics (yeah, I was hooked on that one), and if you drink it daily for a few months it's a good cleanse. Sold! I'll take 100grams, vacuumed packed. By the way is the best prop ever when retelling your tale to all your coworkers about the random crystal tasting you did with their coworker you were responsible for.    

Over all, both markets proved to be worth the hours we spent walking through them. It was not only a great way to leave our money in the city, but also to chat with locals and really experience a portion of the culture. The vendors took time explaining their wares over coffee and tea and were never pushy! Next time I go back (yep, I love it that much, I'm already talking about the next time) I may just do a shopping weekend with a map so I can make sure I don't get lost in my quest for the best deal.

Barcelona Part Tre: The Rest

Saturday kicked off the true adventures in Barcelona...after fueling up on cafè and something way too crispy, chocolately, and yummy. In true Italian Katie fashion by the end of the first block something already caught my eye so of course we started meandering through the Naples like alleys with shops and cafes lining both sides. Luckily, we weren't that far away from where we wanted to be- Catedral de la Santa Crue. This cathedral was burried in the Barri Gòtic area, just on the other side of La Rambla.

The most striking difference between this cathedral to those I'm used to in Napoli was the amazing stain glass windows. The sunlight filtered through the otherwise dark sanctuary illuminating the hundreds of colors strategically arranged. Simply beautiful. I still don't get the need to have the remains of important people in these buildings through. Well, there is a lot of things about the Catholic Church that I don't understand...but I think that is the one that causing the most confusion in my head. Did these people say "I hope my remains get buried (or put on display) at _____?" Yes, these are the thoughts that go through my head while I'm walking around these old buildings...

Once leaving the cathedral (and admiring its moat) we headed towards Parc de le Ciutadella. If I haven't already bragged about the weather we had, let me do so now- blue sky with the sun streaming down and perfect glorious spring days. Before crossing the street, the Arc de Triomf greeted us as it was originally designed to do for the 1888 Universal Exposition. The park is named after the citadel formally found at this location, built by King Philips V after finally taking Barcelona after a 13 month siege in 1714. The citadel was torn down in 1869, leaving only 3 buildings in place including the arsenal which is now where the Catalan Parliament is located.

For the 1888 Universal Exposition, many of the buildings now in the park were built, including the Natural History Museum (Castel dels Tres Dragons). While we walked around admiring everything, hundreds of runners were utilizing the paths within the park running drills and for a split second I wished I was out there with them...but then my body remembered the marathon just a few weeks back. Piano, piano.

The bench lined walk ways with flower covered branches arching over them were simply stunning, as was the amount of grass. I guess I am becoming more of city girl with each passing month! On our trek through the park we saw dogs playing fetch, an enormous Mammoth statue, old men playing bocce ball, and the greenest of mini parrots sticking out of the palm trees. Eventually we found the Cascada, a fountain designed by...yep you guessed, it Gaudí. This was one of his projects as a student and he sort of designed it after the Trevi Fountain in Rome. Although there was only a ton of algae and a floating watermelon rind the water around the fountain, somehow it just blended with the somewhat natural look of the fountain. Well, minus the gold figures on top that I really just didn't care for. Maybe if there were fish I could have looked passed the goldness...maybe.

Let's see here. Then it was off to my favorite place of all time, but now since you're all Gaudí experts I won't take you through that again. On the route back we wandered through more new streets, re-exploring where we had been the night before. Stopping by Mercat St. Joseph there was some permanent damage done... I love looking at all the stands: produce, fish, spices, cheese, and even the occasional meat case. Well, they took it to a whole new level with ham legs. Cured. Hoof and all. Ick. I may need therapy to work through this.

Fast forward to dinner that night along the water. Finding a place to sit us at 11pm was no tough task. Getting through said dinner when I'm staring at a wall with no less than 3 pig legs hanging from it- tough. Very tough when you realize that the white thing stabbed into it is a "juice pan" and MAJ545 teases you about it the entire time. Gracias by the way.

I think I've captured most of that last collage. Some of those pics are just random but too much fun not to include. And yes, those are our "map shots." By that time of the day all map rules had been thrown out the window since we'd walked way too many miles and were in dire need of naps.

It truly was a fabulous trip and I couldn't have asked for a better escape from Italia. Although I'm not one who typically enjoys returning to places I've been...I'd consider returning to Barcelona because that's how much I enjoyed it. PLUS, I need to see the progress made on the most beautiful building ever!

A Day in Caserta

I'm lucky to work in an office where my coworkers actually want to hang out after our "mandatory 40 hours a week." Of course depending on who I'm hanging out with greatly varies the activity we're doing: shoe shopping, coaching, dinning out, trekking through France, wine tastings, sipping coffee, sight seeing. Regardless of the activity though, it's always fun to see how they act outside of our "fixin' ships" roles and I love hearing the stories they have to tell me. 

During a send off department lunch on Friday for other 1/2 of the financial department for 3, yes 3, months my boss invited me to join him and his wife on their Saturday Caserta adventure. So, I accepted the invite. The plan was to hit the Caserta market and then the Royal Palace before doing some shopping at either a different supermarket up that way or stopping by one of the usuals. Sounded like a great plan and it was executed...but this is Italy so maybe not quite as advertised!

Once I met up with them this morning it was mandatory café time. (Sign #1 we're going native.) We then headed north about 20 miles to Caserta. We successfully found the Saturday market that had just about anything you were looking for: shoes, purses, clothes, fabric, produce, fish, cheese, bread, candy, kitchen gadgets. Then again, it also had a lot of stuff you probably didn't need like used shoes for 1E a pair. We walked the rows and rows of booths. After much debate about a lemon tree I left without it but that's because I know I can find one a little closer to home. Leaving with fresh artichokes- apparently it's artichoke season around here, blood oranges, melanzane, my boss and his wife left with an oregano plant, dried spices, and a pair of fabulously discounted (unused) pair of boots for her. My boss later explained to me that he only has 2 pairs of shoes. Is that even possible?!

As we walked back to the car (right, left, right, left) we apparently missed one of our right turns. Walking through the streets we began seeing businesses rather than the neighborhoods we had originally meandered through. Totally worth it through in my opinion because it's not every day you get to see something as amusing as this. (Eyes have been blocked to protect the identity!)

Our next stop was the Royal Palace of Caserta. Well, it was once Catherine the GPS unit got us there. She was taking us some crazy route and finally realized what we were doing...as we were parking. It was refreshing to realize that I'm not the only one that has power struggles with my GPS.

Since they had already been to the gardens we took the tour of the apartments. That is after another café. Hey, this palace is really a palace and we needed the energy to walk through room after room. Alright, so now it's time for your Southern Italy history lesson. Today's information is brought to you from a few of the tour books I received as departure gifts- so thank you once again!

Caserta was built in the middle of the 18th century by King Charles III (Bourbon King) decided to create a new center of administration. He lifted the name from the nearby city Caserta Vecchia, the medieval village which I visited last summer. This plan was heavily influenced by the need to move the power away from Palazzo Reale as it was rather vulnerable by sea and the British had threatened to attack. Once the threat passed, the plans for the building turned into more of a palace, with Versailles as a model and building began in 1742. Problem was, when Charles III returned to Spain in 1759 to become King, construction slowed. By this time, they spent more time working on the gardens. The palace by stats: 1,200 rooms, the biblioteca contains over 10,000 volumes, the nativity scene has 1,200 figures hand crafted from the 18th century and dressed in clothes made by the queen and her ladies in waiting.

 As we walked through the rooms, I found myself wanting to lay on the floor to really take in the magnificent murals and intricate molding on the ceiling. Granted, there was so much gold oozing off most walls it was icky but then again, some of those other rooms had beautiful colors and flowers painted all over.

The clouds and sun created beautiful shadows and natural lighting for some of the rooms. Granted, some of the teal, green, or red rooms really shouldn't have been viewed in bright light but it was fun. Shoot, I even got some decorating ideas for my house...like a canopy bed with a crown holding it all up. Just kidding. That would ruin the view from my window!

One whole room was dedicated to that nativity scene with all 1,200 figurines. It looks a little chaotic but I guess it was a little chaotic the night Jesus was born. This side was the more traditional scene, but as you walked around you began to see families around tables, livestock, water buffaloes, exotic travelers with camels and monkeys. It hands down was the most intricate one I've seen and most of the chapels have amazing ones. In addition to the main one in this room, figures of different sizes were also on display along the perimeter of the room.

I've got to say...I don't think I can call my house  a castle anymore after seeing a real one. But I think I'm okay with that because heating/cooling that place has got to be a nightmare! Plus there were way too many nooks and rooms that Nico would get locked in and it would be days before I could find him. Then again, that garden would be amazing to run around in...

To Market, To Market

One huge perk about American holidays these days (I mean, apart from the 8 hours of holiday pay) is that the Italians still go on with business as usual. This means markets, businesses, schools, and the likes are all open and for once I'm able to live the Italian life.

Today's destination was Shoe Alley. Yes, I have been there before but not for months! My coworker and I had been talking about needing boots for a few weeks and we made the plans late yesterday afternoon. (What else would 2 government employees be talking about late in the afternoon before a long weekend?)

With my coworker taking over directions (my GPS and I are still working through our issues) I drove my car closest to downtown Naples it's been. The drive proved to be entertaining and the traffic at 940 suggested it was still early in the work day. We arrived without incident and I even backed up onto the sidewalk for a very Italian parking job. By the way, Ravi is really learning to love some of his all terrain capabilities in this urban center.

The sun shone down on the shoes causing buckles and bling to glisten like treasures. The stacks of boxes reached several meters high, each containing a pair of shoes. Like two pros, we wandered back and forth between the stalls in each row- careful not to to miss any! In today's search for boots nothing really caught our eyes until the 3rd row. It's here I found the first pair of suede wedge with a little faux sheep wool lining- super cute but just filed away as we continued our search.

Our search for boots was temporarily detoured as I realized I want to find a few scarves since I'm determined the key to dressing like an Italian is to accessorize. My research has concluded that the reason the women always look so fabulous in their outfits is because they've layered and accessorize everything on their person to be art. Granted, it could just be the shoes but I'm not willing to give up my flip-flops just yet.

Row after row we searched. It wasn't until the very back that we finally found one of our favorite types of stalls- cinque euro! Although the selection wasn't too fabulous, for 5E you can buy a pair of shoes and if you don't like them after 2 or 3 wears you pass them along or not feel guilty as they sit in your closet. My coworker found her (only) pair of boots here, but I was still on the hunt for something similar to the ones I saw previously.

And then I saw the most adorable dress ever. Okay, maybe not ever but marked 10E it was pretty fabulous. After checking it out I was 99% sure that this body with my "no carb left behind" Italian food plan was not going to squeeze into it.

Onward!

I finally found a pair of boots. No, they weren't like the ones I saw before (and despite going back for a second look still didn't come home with them) but they looked like something my shoe collection was missing. As we made our way back I once again crossed paths with that dress. Feeling optimistic (I knew it would fit, but it was the "how would it fit" that was the mystery) I tried that and another dress on. And this is how the  clothes shopping at Shoe Alley happened. The original dress was a no go, but I found another one. The only problem is I have a feeling I'll be checking Nini's closet for it should it ever go missing.

So today's trip was successful: boots, a pencil skirt, a dress, and a top all for way less than the holiday pay I was paid while I was outside enjoying the sun rather than in my dungeon.

Back on the Boot

It's crazy just how quickly I've adjusted back to Naples. All my pre-TDY fears have been eliminated and I'm back to business as usual. Before arriving I was already planning/scheming on what needed to be done and got most of it done. (See? Business as usual!) My laundry pile still out measures my motivation, and although that's pretty standard it's a fraction of what it started as...so it can sit a bit longer...I have a blog to write!

When I eventually woke up I realized it was dark because of rain, not because it was early. It most definitely wasn't early... oops. I did have plans but luckily they were pretty flexible since I knew jet-lag was most likely going to do its thing.  Just add 3 shots of espresso though and I'm human. After a quick moment of panic about driving outside the gate I recovered with a motivational pep talk, then Ravi and I were in game mode and ready to go get Casey.

Success!

Well, in the land of coordinates vs addresses it's tough to figure out which house I was actually going to but it wasn't too hard to find and she found me!

Ravi was then ready for his first Italian meal since he'd been on 1/4 tank since Oakland. After some crazy Katie math converting units then trying to tell the attendant what I needed, we got it. Well, it really wasn't simple or straight forward but we figured it out. We're still not sure what he was asking once we established I did not want diesel but it sure was fun to try to guess. We must have made his morning since as we left we got a "you're very beautiful." Windows up, doors locked, driving on. Hey, we didn't peel out.

Next stop was Bacoli, but we really didn't have coordinates or detailed instructions. Well, I take that back. We had instructions but were too busy talking and trying to focus on the road that we ended up following road signs. All I've got to say is I'm so happy I pay attention when I'm sitting in that passenger seat. Parts of the trek were slightly adventurous but as soon as I saw the sidewalk where grilled corn is normally being sold and the intersection that I turned at, therefore avoiding "touch down Jesus" we were good. Like a pro (well, if I kept my second guessing in my head rather than out loud) I figured out where we were and somehow eventually found "the park where parking was available." Sounds sketchy right? Ravi wasn't going to have any of that so we found a lot where I left my keys with a nice man and prayed that I would be able to find the lot again and that my car would still be there. (They were a legit parking lot!)

After walking in the rain in our dresses, sandals and only one of us having an umbrella...we reached the market. It was hilarious getting looks. Apparently not many Americans are out on rainy Saturday mornings at this market? Oh well, they'll get used to me since it's going to be a regular stop for me once I move out that way! I was ecstatic to buy peaches, tomatoes, and eggplant. I think I ended up with a chilo (really, it's kilo but that's how they spell it) with each and I'm so happy. The only thing I didn't end up with was a watermelon but how practical is that to carry around town? We were already getting enough looks...

After sufficiently walking around the down town area, we found Ravi. Actually, we didn't see where they had parked it. Slight panic. Then I heard the familiar ignition start up and Ravi reappeared just like I left him. Phew. Yes, I am a protective car owner...poor Casey must think I'm crazy with how I wanted to keep check on him. Excessive? Probably but why risk it? I've been 6+ weeks without a car and don't want to do that again.

Although we were ready for lunch, it wasn't quite Italy lunch time so up the hill we went to MdP and I gave the driving tour. I really do love the town and just need to pick a place to live already. Yes, you did read that correctly, I'm giving tours of a place I've been 3 times! I told you. I'm going to live there so I need to know all about it. As we headed back down the hill I realized that I missed my "train station shortcut" so we kept going. Good thing we did because Casey spotted the most wonderful pizzeria! After some creative driving an a street side parking spot we found ourselves in the little place ordering pizza. Wonderful pizza.

As we sat and ate we noticed a menu item of pizza alla nutella. After wondering what in the world that would taste like I was convinced to try it since "we were there" and Casey leaves in 2ish weeks. Peer pressure isn't always a bad thing especially when it means you're consuming something too delicious for words. Basically I never want a chocolate croissant again...I want one of these! Nutella wrapped in pizza dough then thrown in the pizza oven? I'm going to add this discovery to the "cons against living in MdP" although it's really not a con unless you ask my thighs.

Food comas induced we headed over to the mall for some shopping. Of course by this time the rain had cleared but still not beach weather so indoors we went. With the pizza in the belly and jet lag combo, I was safe to enter the mall. You read about all the shopping I did last week- even though it's sale month here in Italy I passed on most items...because although I wanted it I didn't need it. (Even in Scarpe&Scarpe- that shoe store we found all those months back!) The only thing that I failed to leave behind was a scoop of gelato. Today's flavor was pistacchio since it came recommended last time. The color is still a little "off" if you ask me, but the mild flavor rocked my taste buds.

I couldn't think of better way to spend my first day back on the boot. Driving in the rain was intimidating at first, but once I realized it was keeping the beach traffic off the roads I needed to be on I was thankful for it. Ravi didn't get to use his voice today even though there were a lot of other cars that did. I still don't know if they were "hi's" to someone else (we were in pretty small towns) or if I was doing something wrong. All I know is, I stayed in my lane, obey the rules, and tired to stay out of the ways of others. I'm still debating if that 50km/hr sign in rainy weather is a typo or not. Really? 35mph? That's the same speed for snow too. I know I use the "hey I'm in Italy" as justification a lot but that just doesn't even work here. Of course, the fact that I'm in Southern Italy means that few traffic rules are even obeyed so maybe they did just get a discount on the 50 signs?