Ciao ciao ciao ciao ciao

There's no doubt in my mind that I'm leaving Italy a different person I arrived 3 years ago and um...2 month, 2 days ago. Putting a semi control freak, type A, too organized for her own good person in this organized chaos means one thing...major change! 

Over the last several months I've found my myself having a tad more of my American showing and even needing to flee to the base. Problem is, when I'm there I feel myself being drawn back outside the gate, back into Italy because it's just a little too American for my new tastes. I find myself jumping back and forth between American and Italian customs, picking and choosing which culture's "rules" I want to play by depending on the current situation. That road sign is just a suggestion. Oh look how cute that is, they're in line! Ravi doesn't always have to pick a lane; he can have 2! Um excuse me, I was here first.

Talk about confusing! Like I really need more voices competing in my head. I think I'm okay with it though because it means that I did live in Italy enough to pick some of it up. The last thing I wanted to do with my time here is to return the same person (read American) that I arrived as. What's the point in living overseas if you're only residing overseas?

Why am I sharing this? Mainly as one big old confession that I hear voices in my head and that despite the pothole filled road that I got to travel on for these 3+ I loved every bit of it. Had things been slightly different I could have easily stayed few more years, but I can't because new adventures await.

So with a car loaded up with 9 cases of wine, a few random boxes, several suitcases and my cousin Claire in the passenger seat it's time to hit the autostrada and watch my Naples chapter fade away in the rear view mirror.

Ciao, ciao bella Napoli I'll be back dopo domani. 

Ciao Ciao Napoli

With all the unknowns over the few months I'll be honest..I've been registering a bit on the manic side one day, and the next resemble my winter doom and gloom persona. I cry at the drop of a hat. I have mini panic attacks when someone asks me a question I don't know the answer to in regards to my "status in Naples." I talk out loud (to myself) just so I can keep my scattered brain on track. Words come out of my mouth like a puzzle.

Lucky for me, I found some of the most amazing people ever here in Naples. These are the friends that wake up early to pick me up for work, the ones that you don't have to clean your house for, the ones that you don't have some conversations with because they share a portion of your brain and know what I'm trying to say.

These friends are also the ones that don't look at me like I'm crazy when I suggest a themed outing for my departure from  Napoli. Hey, it's not like anyone is ever at the Cuma ruins that would see us dressed up in various Greek and Roman costumes...

"Whatareyoutalkingabout?"

Hanging out with my boys for the last time the other night, the littlest one kept looking at me and asking what are you talking about? Now there's a good chance he really had no idea what I was talking about with his older brothers, but so often I feel like it's the same non-verbal response I get from people not familiar with living in Naples. Let's face it- those of us who have spent any extended length of time in Napoli we eat, breathe, live, speak Napoli* and I for one forget that it doesn't always easily translate.

*Please don't confuse this with Neapolitan (the local Italian dialect) because I sure don't speak that. And I sure don't speak Italian despite my efforts in year one.
 
In Napoli traffic no longer conjures images of China Basin after a Giants' game. Traffico takes on a whole new meaning of 6 lanes of cars, with several motos tossed in there to adequately jam pack the 5 to 3 lane merge/exit where Corso Malta meets the tangenziale. 

Lunch no longer brings to mind a quick bite to eat because pranzo is a 2-3 course meal, complete with vino and cloth napkins.

"I just need to finish the laundry" is understood as you'll see me in 5 hours because that's about how long it takes to put a load of clothes through the washer and dryer. Mind you that this load consist of 10 items not made of denim or other heavy fabrics.

New Years? Ha. Until you experience the sky lighting up like a battle zone for hours on end you don't know New Years. Sorry.

The examples could go on and on. Even when I think I found the end of it I'm sure my Naples would show and we'd add several more items to the list: always carrying around tissue with you for bathrooms, praying that your car is there (and in the same condition) when you step out from the shopping mall, remembering coins for a shopping cart, ensuring you have coins to pay the parking attendant...my friend Jen sums it up much better than I can so if you're wondering about this coin thing check out her blog post all about it, just make sure you come back to finish reading this one please! <Click here to jump to her blog.>

Sure, Italy may sound mysterious, romantic, and exciting because it is! It hands down in the most amazing adventure I've embarked out on, but let me be completely honest- some days it just down right sucks. Unexplained power outages. Unexplained water outages. Neighborhoods of alarms going off (oh wait, that's mine...sorry). The inability to communicate effectively. Late dinner hours. Transportation strikes. Gasoline strikes. Garbage strikes. Protests. Burning trash. Crummy internet connections. Terrible cell phone reception. Cold drafty houses in winter. Oven hot houses in summer. Hundreds of stray animals. Roadkill littered highways. Delayed utility bills. Obscene sales tax rates. No personal space. Traffic. Roads with more pot holes than smooth road. Hard water. Complete disregard for rules. Narrow roads. Unmarked roads. One way roads being used a two way roads. Being unable to satisfy a deep craving for good Mexican food! A 45 minute drive to get "American food" like Karo syrup. Ridiculously expensive car insurance rates. Unexplained road closures. Need I go on???

For most of you, my life here in Naples has been a complete mystery for the last 3 years despite my effort to try to explain it (ahem...the reason for this blog). For a few of you, we've witnessed the crazy together and now you get what I'm saying or at least don't question my latest story about what I saw on my commute home (3 grown men peeing on the side of the road, 1 accident, 2 near misses, a road side trash fire, and 2 prostitutes).

My pictures don't convey the chaos experienced on my commute home. I can't capture the frustrations of running up to the roof at o'dark-thirty to see what error is flashing on the caldia resulting in a cold shower in megapixles. The late night shouts, slamming doors, firework explosions...in between the church bells that ring around the clock somehow lose their annoyance factor when you're not the one they are waking up. The having to plan shopping trips around what day of the week it is and riposo requires at least 2 shots of café prior to attacking the day (but night before planning works the best). 

The thing is though? As frustrating and annoying as these things can be it's just part of this grand adventure. The rewards of being here well outweighs all of the risks (getting behind the wheel of a car), hazards (toxic produce), & the alternative of missing out on all of this. 

Wine is cheap and good. So is the produce just don't buy more than you can eat in 2 days. Adventures are abundant and most days don't require more than a 5 minute commute to meet some character that have you and your girlfriends laughing until tears fall. Take notice to the ancient Greek or Roman structure. Sit, climb, crawl over any important ruin- they don't care...just don't think about a lawsuit because those are rare here. Take time to spend with your family and friends every Sunday. Take the entire month of August off to vacation and recharge. Don't worry about what needs to be done today, there's always domani and dopo domani. Pick up strangers on the corner to drive them to the train station. Honk at your friends on the street as you drive by. Order your coffee of choice in 2 seconds (there's no grande sugar free vanilla latte, no whip here). Stop to admire la babina on her afternoon walk with i nonni. Join in the community festivals. Dress in your Sunday best to hit the local Auchan. Bargain with vendors at the local market. Get that extra scoop of gelato. Smiles get you bellas and your windshield washed without a hand turned out at your windshield. Cappucini come with hearts, flowers, or smiley faces in the foam. Patios are filled with retired citizens gossiping. Practice your Indy500 driving, just look out for the sign announcing the upcoming speed camera. Know the calcio score based on the groans, cheers, and horns in the neighborhood. Over indulge in nutella. Know when there is a calcio match on account of the streets being empty. Laugh at the tourists gripping their bags in fear downtown Napoli remembering that was once you. Return the locals' stare as they try to figure out if they know you. Hang out on the church steps and just people watch. Be amazed by the festive lights set up in each of the towns for their patron saints days.

You know that commute home after a long day? Not so bad when I turn the corner and see the Baia Castle looking out over the sparkling sea. 

That late dinner time? Sometimes you need a pizza at midnight.

The terrible road conditions? Makes me thankful that Ravi made the trip with me.

Trash burning? Makes for some incredible sunsets with all those pollutants in the air. 

Slow moving traffic? Well they let me notice the new blue and pink ribbons outside homes announcing new babies. 

The popping of fireworks at 10pm? Perfectly visible from my window above my bed. 

It's all these amazing experiences, realizations, attitude adjustments that make the other stuff tolerable. No. That doesn't mean that a broken alarm system at 6am on a Saturday morning won't bring me to tears when all I want to do is sleep, but it does put it all in perspective.  

Okay. I still sense the whatareyoutalkingabout look coming through my computer screen. The next best solution would be to book a ticket out here because honestly? Until you've experienced Naples you're always going to have that look on your face. Somethings you just have to see for yourself! And trust me- you won't regret it. Just remember to leave your sparkly stuff at home :) 

Africa Called & I Answered

My desire to return to Africa has finally been made a reality!

I've applied and been selected to make a trip with One Child Campaign to travel to Ethiopia this fall. And I am once away blown away by the fact that things have "fallen" into place as I'm checking my inoculation records, searching for flights, and stocking up on sunscreen.

When the idea was still just a whisper in my head I decided that I would not ask for fundraising from any of my family or friends to cover the cost of the trip. I could not ask any of you to when it feels like every other weekend I'm hopping in a plane, car, or train for my next European adventure. So, for the past few months I've been scaling back (and saving my vacation days!) to make sure that when that balance is due I can write that check.

But, here's the deal...

We're traveling to Ethiopia to go into the orphanages filled with kids. Kids that have gone through more in their first years of life that most of us ever will in our entire lifetime.

It is my goal to be able to take clothing, shoes, medical supplies (bandages, etc), small toys, and educational supplies as donations for the ministries we're pairing up with on this mission to be distributed as need. (It will be another month or so until we get a more specific list.) I am more than willing to scale back my belongings to take as much stuff as I can.

If you feel led, and want to contribute to the items taken by the team you can assist in a few ways:

1. Place those Amazon orders and have supplies sent directly to me to hand carry over.
2. Send a box (flat rate boxes are awesome) my way with items.
3. Make a monetary donation (giftcards?) and I'll do the shopping.
4. Assist financially to defray the costs of excess baggage and/or overweight bags.

And yes, I'm always accepting prayers. God has once again showed just how faithful He is in allowing for all of this to come together.

And just because He is God...

Remember how while in Italy all I wanted to do was to head back to Kenya to visit my girls? That is finally becoming a reality as well! After the team disperses in Addis Abba, I'll be headed to Nairobi to see a different side of Kenya. Paired with Compassion International's office I'll be traveling to both of the villages where Caroline and Catherine live, meeting their families, seeing their centers. The sheer joy of seeing Caroline again overwhelms me to the point of no words. Meeting little Catherine for the first time after being her sponsor for only 2 years? Excites me when I think of the possibilities that she and I will have to foster our relationship in the years to come. And meeting their siblings and parents? Chills.

I'm still in awe that all my "let's run away to Kenya" comments, knowing exactly what time the flight left from Naples daily, and spending 3 years trying to make this work from Italy, it's happening within the first few months of being in Spain. Well played, well played.  

Living on Borrowed Time

Ever have those segments of time when you're so focused on something that everything revolves around it? I'm talking dreams, plans, conversations, work, finances?

Well that's what this job search has turned out to be.

8 days out from my original rotation date (when I return to Monterey from Naples) and it's time to fess up- about 2 months ago in a state of panic, I signed a 3 month extension "blocking" my return to Monterey (in the event that I had not yet found a new job) and thus staying in Naples until the end of August. Not the ideal option, but since it's non-binding and my supervisors were willing to take the risk (that I'd find another job and leave in the mean time) I figured it was worth sticking around a tad longer. This way I could continue the search to get a job I was a tad more interested in rather than being placed in a similar job as the one I left (same pay grade too) back at NPS. Plus with a structure change in our office, the work load was finally picking up again, curbing my boredom when too much "free time" occurs at work. I know you all know what I'm talking about...

So, since signing that extension a few nibbles have turned into substantial bites which means my resume is working in our convoluted system. Of course I also was spotted casting the line into dense populations, praying for a bite, even by a small agency and literally watched them turn up their nose in rejection. Lucky for me, I have a few fabulous friends that just reminded me that every rejection just meant it wasn't where I was meant to be.  Few hurt, like the FBI, but I made it to round 2 which is better than in the past. 

Where does it all stand right now? I've got something on the line but haven't been able to reel it in just yet which is why so many of my plans are still up in the air, my house is in a state of disarray, and Nico got his passport. What is meant to be will happen; it always does albeit sometimes it's milliseconds before the buzzer sounds and the ball was just launched. In the mean time I continue to work on my least favorite thing- patience.

Every Monday for the past...um 3 weeks I start optimistically with a "this is the week I'll hear from them" and by Friday all hope has faded as I see the clock tick to 10pm out here meaning their work day is also over and find my inbox still empty.

Yeah. It sucks, but knowing that when this all works out it's going to be fabulous seems to get me through the fact that friends who were supposed to leave after me are already have their orders in hand, scheduled their pack outs, and have started everything else when it comes to out processing while I'm renewing all my Naples related documents. Not quite how I thought it was going to play out, but then again it very seldom is.

Good Friday

Sitting on my couch this evening in my typical end of work week daze, the voice I've come to call Mr. Monte di Procida came over the PA system. Since my movie had just ended I walked to my kitchen to see find out the answer to this episode of "why is my street closed?"

Like before I saw a large fraction of the town filling the street. Behind the polizia moto 3 kids walked next to each other, the one in the center holding a simple wooden cross while the one on either side held a large olive branch. Behind each of the olive branch carriers, a line of 10 kids dressed in white robes. Primarily women followed, presumably mothers of the kids, around one of the transportable speakers transmitting the prayer by the priest while the crowd responded.

The priests followed immediately behind the Commune di Monte di Procida, and then several hundred people, bundled up in their winter coats, holding prayer sheets.

Nope! Not my balcony.

When the head of the group stopped in the piazza I live next to, the people in the street packed in more. I'm talking 6-8 across from the "icky pizza place" all way to the coffee bar.  Additional people watched on and participated from their balconies above the street.

This is the first year I've been in down for the processions and despite not being Catholic and only understanding every 3rd word (since Ave Maria doesn't really count as understanding) the sight still was overwhelming. The prayers being sent up. The music filling the air. All of it was... WOW! These people recognizing the fact that Jesus died on a cross all those years ago.

For about the million time out here I'm reminded about just how awesome of a God I serve. A God that sent His only son to die for me, the crazy driver that cut me off on the drive home, and the coworker that annoys me. It doesn't matter if I only speak English, or if I can speak 20 languages because He knows them all! It doesn't matter where I am in the world because He is there and always listening for my little voice among all wind, chatter, alarms, and zooming cars. I don't need to be in the Duomo, I can praise him just as well watching the sun set over the Bay of Gaeta from my rooftop.

Then again, it could just be Him delivering the message to me that I should spend a little less time focusing (and worrying) about a plan that was set into motion a long, long, long time ago and more on Him.  See? That's how awesome God is- He sends a large percentage of the town I live in to my house to remind me that sometimes it's not all about me. {Yes, I realize I'm implying that this whole parade was for me isn't really taking the focus away from me, but what I'm trying to say and am more rambling at this point is, God has got it all taken care of so it's about time I "let" Him do his job- right?}

Yeah, I'm sure my theology is less than sound here (sorry dad) and I really did just want to share a few pics and the video with you all so I'm not sure why I'm (still) rambling.

"When the centurion and those who were with him, keeping watch over Jesus, saw the earthquake and what took place, they were filled with awe and said, 'Truly this was the Son of God!'”

Matthew 27:54

Treitman Travel Testimonial

I love visitors and I love them even more when they agree to my request of writing a guest blog post! My most recent guests and I hadn't seen each other in over 3 years, but like with all great friendships we picked it up right where we left of...just thousands of more miles traveled! Although they were taken on the Standard Katie O. Tour I was amazed how that "Naples factor" kicked up the surprise factor making the tour even more memorable. Thank you both for heading to southern Italy to see me and getting a feel for my life here in Bella Napoli, I hope you loved it as much as I do.

Hello Readers,

I’m Tyler, and recently my wife Lexie and I stayed at the Oropeza B&B just outside of Naples. Our train from Rome arrived mid morning on Saturday and the Katie, the proprietor of said B&B was gracious enough to provide a shuttle service from the train station in Naples to her establishment in Monte di Procida. I highly recommend this service as navigating the Italian freeway system requires a higher level of understanding than this tourist has.

The B&B was located in a lovely neighborhood that is close to the coast but also on the highest point of the point at Monte di Procida. Accommodations were more spacious than we had imagined and very tidy. The other guests were nice folks as well. They were always quiet and reserved, tip toeing around like cats as to not disturb the serenity that come from time spent enjoying the view. That view alone is worth the visit, rooftop terrace has 360 degree views of Monte di Procida, Naples and the surrounding isles. You could really while away the hours there with a bottle or two of your favorite libation, as you soak in ancient vista, and contemplate the “bigger picture” or what ever that may mean to you.

What followed our tour of the accommodations was what I would call “hands on traveling”. We found ourselves slicing, mashing, roasting and frying. Indeed this was work on our vacation, how perverse! At least it was work till our task master provided us with wine to drink. At that moment perspective shifted as I realized I was in a cooking class that was hosted by a top local chef. We were taught how to shop for the right ingredients to make some delicious local meals. I do not recall how many courses we made as I may have eaten myself into a euphoric state between the 2^rd and 3^rd courses, or maybe I became overwhelmed and slept through a course somewhere…I can’t quite recall. We made a lemon and muscle pasta, eggplant parmesan, and a pear and ricotta tort. Learning can be delicious. 

Day two was a busy one. We started the morning at Vietri Sul Mare which features a beach that is often covered with broken and wave tossed colored ceramics from the local craftsmen. This sounds like it might be an awful form of pollution but it actually makes for a dynamically colorful painted pebble beach. We filled our pockets with potential mosaic components before hitting the road. The spaghetti noodle that is the road linking the cities along the Amalfi coast brought us to our second course of the day. An aromatic dish Sorrento was. Famous for its production of lemoncello, Sorrento is a city that is best understood once you have walked through the lemon orchard in the middle of downtown. Once you see some of the lemons that are the size of [American] footballs you can understand why the shops and restaurants are so proud of their relationship to the acidic fruit.

The last scheduled stop on our journey, was Herculaneum (and I mean “scheduled” as I don’t count the coastal bicycle race that closed the freeway down for about half an hour). Herculaneum was very important to me being that I have a degree in Archaeology.  Herculaneum, if you don’t know, is the other Roman city to be covered/preserved by the eruption of Mount Vesuvius. Pompeii is the city that everyone knows of as it was discovered many years ago. My last trip to Italy was regretfully lacking due to the fact that Herculaneum was not open to the public at the time.  Herculaneum was by many accounts a more aristocratic community than Pompeii. The tour starts at what is called the ancient beach which is where the shore line used to be prior to the volcanic eruption. The first thing you notice is how many stories down and inland this beach is. I’ve seen many ancient monuments and so far in my travels but Herculaneum has been the most exciting.

 

As you make your way up from the beach you see alcoves built into the dock typically used to store seafaring items and cargo. From there you walk up a long ramp as the city appears to rise up out of the sea for several stories. Once at the top you find your self flanked by rows of multi level buildings on each side. A quick peak into a few of the buildings generally rewards you with clues as to its intended function. To the left there was a building that had a long table with giant amphora pots embedded in it, this was a restaurant. Down the road was a bath house with changing rooms and robe cubbies and hot cold rooms. Around the corner is a lavish house with several rooms and fountain next to a temple, a wealthy priest’s house. A large two story building with several rooms, this was an apartment building. Another large multi roomed building with common areas, this was a hotel. A building with a mill and a giant brick oven, this was a bakery. There was even a building with a large press at floor level, this was a laundromat. Togas apparently needed pressing too. Actually the typical roman laundromat would wash clothes with ammonia derived from human urine. There you have it, next time some one pisses themselves you are equipped with some fun facts which might lift their spirits, no guarantees.

 

 After an hour or so of walking the ancient roads the city will start to transform. At some point it transcends its condition, it ceases to be ruins and becomes a community. Herculaneum is so exciting to me because it is infinitely relatable in the way the Roman Coliseum or medieval castles are not. It takes no effort to imagine the people who lived there, no effort to see the city as they did, and no effort to sympathize with their fate. 

On August 24th 79 AD Mount Vesuvius began to quake and fume intensely. Some may have tried to evacuate through the ash raining down across the Bay of Naples, but several remained in what they through might be a safe place. Remember the alcoves at the docks I spoke about earlier? Some 300 of the inhabitants of the town hid inside these niches built into the rock. Young and old, rich, and poor, baker, blacksmith, and priest were likely praying to their gods for safety. On August 25^th around 1:00 the mountain erupted and Herculaneum would be hit by the pyroclastic flow, a wall of hot gasses burning at 932 degrees blasted the town at 100 mph. Our huddling townsfolk’s blood instantly boiled and their teeth popped like popcorn kernels in their heads. This happened 6 times before the ash settled and entombed the skeletons in the docks. I hesitate to call them “skeletons” because the word is too hollow, at the end of the day they became neighbors with lives and stories to me.

I can’t finish this letter on a somber note, let’s pick it up a bit... 

We got back to the Oropeza B&B and rested our weary feet from our long day. Soon though, our stomachs had a craving that can only be alleviated by pizza. “When in Naples, eat pizza,” I just quoted myself. Katie had a great idea to host a pizza tasting competition, which is a challenge I’ve never turned down. We ordered 4 pizza’s for the 3 of us and started eating like it was August 23, 79 AD (too soon?). There was one margherita pizza, one prosciutto pizza, an eggplant pizza and a weird non traditional one with arugula and corn. We all lost count of how many slices we ate for science.   In the end the margherita pizza from our host’s favorite place was the clear winner. I’d like to think the Herculanean baker would have agreed. 

There's a Line for Baguettes

The stars aligned so Jeff and I got a second trip in while he was in Europe. Next destination? PARIS! With his sense of adventure and willingness to do things I didn't get to do last trip, we adapted to the city's pace and spent a fabulous long spring weekend exploring, eating, and getting cultured. But, this is his post- not mine! Enjoy!

Paris has a pollution problem right now. Several times this year already it's exceeded the maximum PPM levels for particulate matter and as a solution, the city has offered free public transportation on the weekends, including bicycles ("velos"). This was not the case during the two days Katie and I were there, and the one time we tried to rent velos in Versailles, the shop was closed. But that was probably the only disappointment of the trip.

Nevertheless Paris delivered on its promise of being big and beautiful in a rustic kind of way. Cobblestones and ancient stone buildings made a nice backdrop for the tailored snappiness of groomed Parisians. Crepes, frog legs, and truffle chicken made its way into my mouth along with a few carafes and bottles of wine in cafes and parks.

The common social bond shared amongst its residents perhaps stems from the outstanding amount of taxes that supports the French way of life. With a fag in hand, legs crossed, and a beer next to an ashtray, Parisians regale each other in sidewalk seating all hours of the day with their swooning vowels and machine gun consonants. C'est la vie, I've heard.

The Mona Lisa, the Eiffel tower, Notre Dame, Versailles, and 6 million dead bodies were all visited by my sister and I. We came, we saw, and we conquered some universal bucket list items. We en guarded against pick pockets. We discussed the ramifications of giving every US citizen 1 airstrike to call in at will. And we had croissants.

In all, a fine trip and a perfect way to cap off my stay abroad. Big shout out to my metro navigator, hotel booker, and big sister Katie!

And Now We Wait. (Yes, Still.)

It's been a week since the job I think that I really (really) want closed for applications. Now I'm playing the waiting game.

A game a suck at.

I'm so terrible at it that when I was little I would know 95% of my presents under the Christmas tree well before the 25th.

I'm the one that will start down a new path while waiting for the results of the path I just jumped from.

My nights are restless. My food choices terrible. And my credit card bills seems to spike around all important life decision.

So, imagine my shock when I received an "all hands" email today announcing that the next command event in a mere 2 weeks would be including my upcoming farewell. Lots of thoughts raced through my brain, especially since my departure was still fresh on my mind after discussions earlier in the day.

But really? End of March for an end of May departure? Sure, let's make me more anxious about a situation I'm already losing sleep and gaining pounds over.

I've got to applaud our group though as there have been several folks leaving the command lately that have left just like everyone else out the door on a Friday afternoon, not to return on Monday. But really?!?! Way to throw it in my face with streamers, searchlights, and a loud speaker reminding me that I still don't have an answer as to where I'm going in 75 days from now.

Then I got to thinking. Yes, I do a lot of thinking. It's part of the living alone and having really long commutes every day. Monterey is my default solution. Is it the preferred solution? Not by a long shot, but if it's the "worst" destination that I can think of right now? I guess it's not all that bad?

Just Another Travel Adventure

This is one of those stories that you are hearing about because it turned out okay. And it already happened. And I don't plan on doing it again, nor should you attempt it. And yes, the guys at the office have already mandated that I re-do all my trainings because apparently I did not apply the skills set they are trying to teach. I love all my big brothers that can look me dead in the eye and ask how can I be so stupid and yet smart at the same time. 

Now, with that kind of lead up...

$#!% that Happens When I'm Left to My Own Devices: 

Katie's 1st Adventure in Brussels

Bag collected, train station located, ticket purchased & platform located.

Determined to execute my plan of getting the Brussels' central train station and getting a cab for the short distance to the hotel given the late hour, suitcase, and the simple fact that I'm exhausted and have no patience to get lost I find the taxi stand.

The first guy passes me to the next car, claiming he doesn't understand the hotel name (despite me showing it on the paper, complete with address.) The original guy comes and asks and then proceeds to give me instructions because it's "really close."

I must have made him repeat the instructions 3 times, and I repeated them back to him each time. Direction number one? Cut through a dark looking park area which wasn't too long of a stretch.

At this point I didn't even mind the stairs because I was more concerned with the swaying drunk man, beer still in hand, walking in front of me. I purposely slowed down until we were on the street before passing him at which point he starting to serenade me. Fortunately, even in the late hour, our hotel was in the thick of things so there were lots of people still out and I was able to head off in the direction I was told.

Problem is, none of the roads I saw were on the craptastic map I had BECAUSE I was planning to have a cab take me! I walked around for a good 20 minutes, trying to remember which landmarks our hotel was by after doing the search for where we wanted to stay. I hit the main street and knew I needed to back track into the cobblestone alley ways (fabulous for rolling a suitcase by the way) so I did.

It was probably about 15 more minutes of this when a guy on the street asks if everything is okay. Actually it was more of a Mademoiselle, what's wrong? As he crossed the street to his car. So I asked him where we were on the map and if he knew which direction I needed to go because it's midnight, I've been up since 5 and I'm lost. Why? Cause the taxi drivers decided that it was close enough I could walk. Ha. I can't read maps and oh, I don't have one and the directions he gave me to where he "thought" it was? Um there was the dark park to kick it off which I was okay with but then there was a really drunk guy and he was singing me a song so I booked it out of there.

No. He didn't speak English all that well so I kept all of that in my head.

He of course didn't really know where the hotel was so he asks 2 younger guys (with beers in their hands) headed our direction if they knew where my hotel is. I soon realize he's getting driving instructions and when I protest that I'll walk, my suitcase ends up in his trunk while the other 2 guys start "dude, California" and ask if I want beer. And suggest I should call them. Then one of the guys  asked me for his number but his wing man totally failed at his job because he encouraged us to get out of there.

So I get in the car. Cell phone out. (No there weren't any new numbers in there!) Seriously. at this point I could end up in Africa a lot faster than I've ever planned, but I just didn't care. I'm tired. We get to the main road and he stops and asks people. They're tourist too. Next stop was a guy...he point in some direction.

We go that direction. Flag another person down. Sends us another direction.

Flag a cab driver down. He gets us to the right street then I see a cafe with the same name as the hotel and we're on the right street. My friend Samil from Cameroon goes in and comes out with a waiter who tells us its down the street. He moves back towards the car, but I tell him I an walk the rest of the way. He claims it's a 3 minute walk...it was the across the alley and 2 doors in. 

And I was already excited to see Jeff, but after this ordeal? Words cannot even express the thrill I had when he opened the door and we promptly laughed at both our "adventures" getting to the hotel. 

In summary...

1. I would not have gotten in the car if I really didn't feel good about the situation, but it passed the gut check. 
2. I'm happy to report that the people of Brussels are super friendly, helpful, and kind. 
3. Yes, I had my personal items in my lap, door was unlocked, hand near door handle, and I was ready to see if I could run just in case events turned to something that crazy; and luckily they did not because wearing the same clothes all weekend would have sucked.

March: Letting Go

Alright, both January's and February's goals have gone really well. I'm still carrying on my daily devos (it helps when I love every page in Beth Moore's study on Daniel that my Bible Study is doing this term) and even though I had to reactivate my FB account, I've been faithful at not checking posts/requests/messages. It's because you all were freaking out and asking my family if everything was okay. And of course when I say "freaking out" I really mean, because you care about me you wanted to make sure I was okay :) A little break was good- did you know that Facebook sends you emails letting you know that you have pending notifications? Yeah. I never needed those emails before...

So, it's March and time for another monthly focus. Back in December I picked the theme of "Letting Go" in regards to letting go of things, as in possessions. Mainly this was a sneaky way to trick myself into the purging before the movers come, however, over the last few weeks, and in particular the last few days I think I'm going to expand the focus.

In an effort to not only get myself ready for this move, but also for a new chapter in my life, this month I'm focusing on letting go of all the stuff that's holding me back, all the stuff that's causing the bad stress, all the stuff that for whatever reason I just haven't yet had the courage, strength, motivation to let go of.

Let's face it. We all hold on to things that we shouldn't- torn up jeans, memories, trinkets, a skirt that will fit again "one day," bad habits, hurtful words, relationships, unrealistic hopes/dreams/goals.

I'm no exception to that.

I know this is going to be a tough one which is why I've been working on my list of a few of the "emotional" ones and figuring out which one I need to bid adieu to. As for my closet packed with clothes, 72 (!) pairs of shoes, and more items in my tiny office than many people in the world have? They're under attack too! For some reason the scene in Leap Year when the main character is asked what she would save if she only had 60 seconds.

Well, Katie, what would you grab? 

As someone who much rather spend my money on experiences than things, there are still a few things that I'd race against a fire to save. Most of my stuff? Prob not. I have it because they are necessary- clothes, kitchen junk, a couch to sit on. But the excess? I so don't need that. Time to start eliminating the excess and prevent it from entering my house.

Again.

It's time to be deliberate with what I buy, collect, say I "need," and conversations I have. It's one thing to let go of things, but why not also start working on preventing the future "need to let go's" from starting. I'm not sure if that makes sense to anyone but me, but this is my blog and I get it.

Hmph. Not Quite MilAir

Okay, so as I was dealing with my fellow passengers flying out of Naples, I felt like I fish out of water. No personal escorts to the flight line. No meet and greets. A thorough security screening. Boarding passes being scanned and check. Of course I also wasn't asked for my body weight...

Some how, even in a more German dominate population, the crew pegged me as Italian. Ha. I love opening my mouth speaking "American" English even when my puffy coat, out of control curls, scarf, boots, and a bag of fresh mozzarella di buffala make me look Italian. (It's all about the accessories!) Seriously. This is a game that never gets old for me. Of course it had been nice just a few weeks prior flying with a ton of people I knew & all spoke English.

As the plane left the gate, I got this really strange feeling.

All of a sudden I started questioning their trilingual safety instructions, the fact that people had to "ask" to move seats, and perhaps the most disconcerting item- I had no idea who was flying me to Munich!

Yes, this the first commercial flight I've flown since the Turkey adventure in January and although the food and beverage service was nice, I just don't get the customer service I'm used to anymore. And this was Lufthansa!

I'm telling you, MilAir just may be my 1st choice method for flying from here on out. Where else do you get to walk around in the cargo bay? Or go visit the captain? Or not have to worry that your bag made the flight since it's right there next to you? Of course it helps to know the crew flying the plane because then you are treated better than any Flag Officer. Then again, it does come at the cost of having to cuddle up with your coworkers to stay warm in the belly of C126 but it's a small price to pay and I like that coworker. A lot. Clearly if I was able to get over my need for personal space!

But the C9? That's pretty much the same as one of these regional flights that I'm currently waiting on. And I have in on the highest authority that some of their pilots are pretty phenomenal at what they do. I mean, on my last flight on a C9, our pilot not only avoided 85% of the nasty turbulence just so I could sleep, but also provided a fabulous lightning show out my window. Now, that's customer service!

And my final thought as my flight is about to start boarding...make sure you thank your pilots when you exit the plane. Seriously. They are doing a ton of stuff up there (all those switches really do something!) so if you have a smooth flight, easy landing, make great time it's probably because they're working over time to make your flight enjoyable. And if it's still a rough flight? They were doing what they could but the voices that tell them where to fly and what to do (voices in the radio) couldn't help them find a solution...and they dealt with the same flight you did.

Okay, now I'll answer you questions:

1. Yes. I am an international travel snob.
2. Yes, I am motivated to be SES again if I can get my own plane and can request who I want to fly it all the time.  And I'd get my own flag!!!
3. I'm currently in Munich, waiting for my flight to Brussels where I have the most fabulous guy waiting for me.

Flour Woes

Ready for my latest first world problem?

Back in December when my kitchen resembled the Keebler Elf Factory I somehow accumulated so much flour that even after all my holiday baking was done I still had over 20lbs! I think it's the "to get the type of baking ingredients I actually want it's a 40 minute one way drive and I can't recall if I already have some" syndrome.

You may have this syndrome if:

• You can't find space in your cabinet for that 4th box of brown sugar.
• In searching for cinnamon, you find 5 peppermint extracts, 2 ground cumin, and 3 ground gingers. Cinnamon? Nope, that's the one you were out of!
• You open your freezer and have just as many ice packs as bags of frozen peas. I don't even eat the things. I mean, up to this point I haven't.
• You routinely pick up common baking items just in case.

Yep. That's how I ended up with 20+ pounds of flour. You know it's bad when I'm purposely looking at recipes right now to see which ones require the most flour. Of course in the effort to use the flour, I'm having to ask for the ingredients I no longer carry in stock. Why don't I carry them? Um, I'm moving in 3ish months. 

My coworkers are being fabulous guinea pigs and I even had the CDRE stopping by my desk after the Valentine's Day heart and sugar explosion further confirming that I have a solid customer base should I ever open my bakery.

So today's 4 cup of flour adventure? Blueberry scones (goodbye frozen blueberries!) & chocolate chip cookies (bye-bye chocolate chips).  Stay tuned because in another month or so I have a feeling I'll start listing my pantry contents and be looking for creative menu ideas. (Or looking to see where I can donate my canned goods here in Naples!)

Video Update

How Goes It?

I love the fact that I've received so many emails from you all over the past few Facebook free weeks making sure that everything is okay and seeing what's up. I also have to smile when local friends have to take the time to fill me in on something since I didn't see the post or a coworker asks how I'm doing with not being able to post pictures from my adventures.

Of course if you know about my blog, you know that I'm actually getting better about posts again. It's amazing all the FB statuses I've wanted to post that have turned into blogs instead or (gasp) just was a fleeting thought in my mind.

So, how goes it?

Giving up Facebook has proven to not be that big of a challenge- until I want to see pictures of a recent adventure or they send me pesky emails saying I have lots of notifications. Like I had suspected, I actually get things done in the evenings too. It's amazing.

The job search is pressing on and although I've had a few nibbles on the resume, I'm holding out for the prize marlin. By the end of the month I hope to have more of an update and no dark circles under my eyes from restless nights while my future is in limbo. I've still got time...96 days are still on my current commitment and talks of extending a little past those double digits has already begun.

Neeks is still as adorable as ever. He's thrilled with each additional minute of daylight meaning he can go out on the patio.

And perhaps my best news- I ran jogged for 30 seconds yesterday on a treadmill, without my knee brace! I'm 4 weeks past the last major pain and finally back to the gym at a semi regular interval.  

So that's your Wednesday evening Katie O. update.
Ciao tutti!

Oh Orvieto!

I went down, down, down, and the rings rose higher...

Okay, so maybe Johnny Cash rewrites don't really work when you're in Italy trekking down into the depths of Pozzo di San Patrizio, but when you start trekking down those 248 stairs spiraling downward 175feet below the surface you tell me what song comes to mind!

The well was absolutely amazing and looked just like the pictures said it would- a simple double helix pattern allowing easy up/down traffic.

And let me tell you, when there's just two of you in there? It's a tad creepy, especially when your talkative knees are crunching with each step down into the misty depths. 

The well was originally built after the Pope fled Rome after an attack against the Holy Roman Empire and ended up in Orvieto. His only fear of his destination was that the hill town would be besieged and be cut off from their water supply so he commissioned the well to be built in 1527. It apparently took 10 years to carve out of the stone descending basically down the hillside- no easy task! 

 

The rest of the city was beautiful as ever on what felt like spring morning as the sun shone brightly in the blue sky.  A walk through the community park provided stunning views off the hill's cliff into the valley below and the river changing its normal path as a result of the recent rain. 

With lungs full of fresh country air, the tunes of the songbirds fresh in our minds, and our bodies producing VitD we begrudgingly packed up the car and headed our drive back south. Sometimes a long weekend just isn't enough time with a fabulous friend, in a beautiful region, and lots of yummy wine.

Girls on a Mission

Bags packed.
Reservations made.
Flowers from my valentine(s) in a water bottle ready to make the trek.

Destination: Cortona.
Where is Cortona? Tuscany of course! I'm still not sure how I came across it and why it became one of my top "hill towns" to visit, but it did and I'm glad!

With both of our times in Italy drawing to a close, Jess (AKA Mom of Minions) decided we'd let the kids spend one last long weekend together while she and I headed north to wine country to ship back home. Okay, I really wanted to hit Pisa, but flooding took place instead so wine was a fabulous runner up option and hello, we're multitasking here! 

This morning we met up Stefano who spent the entire day driving us around the valley, taking us to wineries, and telling us the history of the region. I'm telling you- hiring a local to show you around is hands down the best way to explore places and if you're lucky, they do all the driving so you can sit back and enjoy the wine view.

Our first stop was Montepulciano, one of the Mideival and Renassance towns in the region, which is known primarily for its Vino Nobile. This wine made primarily of Sangiovese grapes is aged for 2 years in barrels, or longer if riserva. Despite traveling to this town when my parents were in town (yeah, you would have never known based on the lack of blog posts) seeing the town again, this time with blue sunny skies looked completely different! Our walk through the off season crowd was rather enjoyable too.

Cantina Città Sotterranea Ercolani was stop #1. Here I found my knight in not so shinny armor waiting for our arrival before touring the underground ancient city. How ancient? Well, there are two Etruscan tombs, medieval torture devices, and lots of stories from its past. Of course most the chambers now are used as barrel storage areas as the vino nobile ages to perfection, but it was a fun tour to check out before our wine sampling started mid morning. It was here we first learned what the glass green containers atop each barrel was. The simple 2 part glass container was designed by da Vinci to allow for easy wine access (samples/topping off) while still allowing a tight seal, provided by water, to allow for the air to escape the barrel, without letting any in. Air in a wine barrel? That's a whole lot of vinegar.

We tasted the vino nobile riserva from 2005 and 2006, along with the some other stuff that wasn't all that yummy. Of course pecorino cheese will always be the clear winner for yum factor, but I did walk away with a box full of red wines and a large bottle of Vin Santo, the best stuff ever to dip biscotti in.  

Stop #2 in Montepulciano was hands down our most favorite place of the day. With a name like Gattavecchi (which was the founding family's name) there's potential. Pair that with the fact that this winery was originally set up by monks, and connected to the church? Oh and did I mention the bellissima vista and the old lady who greeted us who had been working there since she was 20? Yep. This place was amazing. A quick tour through the rebuilt cellar (bombed during the war) revealed more huge barrels and an Etruscan cellar. Back upstairs we were met by one of the owner's sons who explained to us in detail the wines, flavors, and process- he had to with the size of pours being given to us!

We both fell in love with the rosso  and bought them out of one of the labels! I guess walking out with 5 boxes will do that to their stock? Everyone is happy though- they have more room for the new stuff and we get discounts. We also tasted their new vino nobile before it was to be introduced to the press later this week. At first sip, it was bleh but once we tried "what it will age into" the flavors began to make more sense. And the additional pecrino cheese and bruschetta drizzled with fresh pressed olive oil? Yum. Yum. Yum.  Purchases made, business card collected, car weighed down by another 7+ boxes of wine??? Time to head over to Pienza for a tour and pranzo. 

Pienza, famous for being the birth place of Pope Pius II was rebuilt as a Renaissance town after he became Pope. The tiny town had only a few streets, but the view was stunning along Via dell’Amore, Via della Fortuna, & Via del Bacio. Totally filing those places away to sneak off one day with a special someone to enjoy the sun soaked country side. Lunch was a yummy ravioli with sage and butter, and somehow we managed to make room in our bellies for more food. Absolutely beautiful, tiny hill town, complete with cheese shops!

Somehow between the sun streaming in on me through the back seat window, some winding roads, & several cap naps, we made it to an abbey near Montalcino- Abbey of Sant' Antimo. The wind blowing through the olive trees, birds chirping and briliants greens made it difficult to shake my food/wine induced slumber, the I wanted to breathe in that fresh air so badly! And I did. And I enjoyed every bit of that air expanding through my bronchial airways encouraging all that Naples crud to leave. Yep. Near coughing attack, but I think my lungs are much happier again.

Our final stop was a winery in Montalcino- La Potazzine Gortelli. La potazzine translates to mean a local small birdbut it's also commonly used as a term of endearment for children. In this case, the owners 2 daughters have been called le potazzine by their nana and the name of the winery was found. This stop was undoubltly on a different business plan. The owner held many hectarces of loand and distributes his wine world wide. The estste was heautiful, and decorated for visiters. in a formal tasting room we sampled wines that were okay. Based on the price tag, they should have been fabulous but as we kept telling ourselves throughout the day- buy what you like! And well, at 48E a bottle? That label just wasn't so adorable anymore and the contents of the  bottle only so-so. Yeah, this famous Brunello wine? Non me piace! 

So over all? TripAdvisor rocks again in helping me figure out this latest adventure. The day was long, but we got what we wanted- cases of wine for wine shipment time and saw many cities along the way! As for food and wine? Ugh. Sono pieno fino a quando lo facciamo anche domani!

Happy Valentine's Day!

Okay, so here I am again another Single Awareness Day but you know what? Like so many years before I'm having the time of my life because I have simply amazing friends. This year, Jess and the Minions headed up our way a few days early to the weekend so Jess got looped into helping me make my semi-annual sugar cookie coated in more sugar tradition.

Just like a few years back as I sat at the Van Buren apartment's kitchen table with GWB, Jess and I were laughing so hard as we decorated the hearts this evening. By about 10 decorated cookies into it I finally decided that each cookie on that table represented our hearts at various times of our lives.

Okay, maybe some like "Prison Break" was more of a cry from her to me to let her get to bed as the clock struck 11 but um I think most of us have witnessed a relationship where a clean escape was the best bet?

My personal favorite creation, minus Nico's cookie to my coworker's daughter (see top right corner in picture), was the pink heart with a white stripe through it. I think in what most therapist call a "break through" I realized that it is the same sign as the "do not enter" out here for cars. Ooops. Oh well. It's probably best that some people don't enter my heart- right? Or the fact that we don't really observe traffic signs here in Southern Italy...

Hmmm. Alright, well it's after midnight and my kitchen is still a mess, the most amazing almond no bake truffles are still minus their chocolate outer coating, I have to be out my door for work in 6 hours, and um yeah, I'm not packed for my get-a-way weekend with Jess up in Tuscany BUT I just wanted to share once again (not because Hallmark is reminding me, but I don't think that I've said it recently), that I love each and every one of y'all.

No way could living here in Italy without the love, support, and contact from you locals and those who live slightly calmer lives in fresh air would ever EVER be possible for me.

Weekend in Review

Whenever my work day ends at 1800 on a Friday evening...you know some crisis hit just seconds before my normal quitting time. In all honesty, I was only a tad faster than a tortoise getting into the office that morning and when combined with raw sewage spilling out onto one of the decks in the office building, the evacuation didn't allow me to sit at my desk until 9 am. So after some math, I really did not sit at my desk for all that long, but it's just extremely frustrating when issues hit regarding travel so late in the day. Took me back to NPS days...

Luckily I have some of the most fabulous coworkers EVER. Despite the Freaky Friday feeling when I was the one staying late when they got out of there closer to my normal time, we all met up to decompress and laugh away the stress from the week; like friends will do and only coworkers really can when we've all be exposed to the same stuff. All. Week.

And when that's not enough? You're so thankful that the wine tour you signed up for weeks before falls on that weekend, and the large group you were anticipating turns into primarily a group of your friends. 

On what started to be a rainy Naples Saturday, the whole 8 of us headed up north towards Benevento on a standard 50 person bus. Yep. Lots of room for wine. And moving between seats as the clouds lift, rain stops, and the sun appears shinning its warm rays down on the green ground.

Trip #2 up to the OCONE winery was just as good as the first time last May. Actually, this time was better as our small group was able to tour learn more about the winery! Our small group quickly took on that of a family appearance as we moved the tables together to make our "head table" to dine at over our ridiculous number of wine tastings. Our tour guide, Aldo, who happens to be a walking encyclopedia once again walked us through the Neapolitan Toast several times so we could kick off the tasting with a proper spumante toast:

(As you raise your glass up)

Aiza aiza aiza 

 (As you lower your glass down)
Acala acala acala

(As you clink glasses with everyone)
Accosta accosta accosta 

(Everyone raises and holds their glass)
Alla saluta vosta! 

SALUTA!

And how can you not be in a good mood after a toast with friends? Or sampling all those wines? It was a perfect way to spend the afternoon- buoni cibi, buoni vini, buoni amici! All the boxes that had "KO" scribbled on them didn't hurt either to start getting my wine shipment to resemble a decent collection. And? With the exception of a few bottles from this place, these are "every day" wines which means when I'm missing Italia? Hit the wine stash, raise a glass, and teach my new friends the Neapolitan toast. 

Our time with Signore Domenco and his sons was far too short, but the wine and food coma was coming on strong so we didn't fight it too much as we loaded back onto our bus and made the drive back to Naples. Plus the final event of my day- tapas, paella, and karaoke! Yeah, no pictures or videos from that fun night, but rest assured- it was the perfect way to end my day!

Sneak Peak of Photo Shoot

Uh huh. I guess Nico really isn't on board with COA #4. The little monster was not having our annual Valentine's Day photo shoot today. Not. One. Bit. 

Maybe the President's Day shoot will go better?

February: Disconnecting to Reconnect

It's February which means my Facebook account has been suspended for the first time since creating it back as an undergrad.

I know-me! The hopeful Mrs. Facebook!

So why this decision?



Well several reasons but I think most of them fall under the general category of "I'm sick of not really communicating with people." I'll be the first to admit that I've fallen into the "text, not call", "I'll send you a message on Facebook", and feeling like I'm keeping up with friends via posts and pictures.

So this month's goal is to reconnect with friends one on one, through Skype/FaceTime, emails, & calls.

The bonus of this goal?

• My lock-down profile doesn't even exist for potential employers!
• Getting bitten by the jealous bug won't happen (yeah, while you're drooling over picture from my last trip, I'm dying over that trips to Target or other events in your life). 
• I'll have a lot more time to work on my blog and resume.

A New Kind of Adventure

"If something happens, just run as fast as you can."

Um. Did I just hear that correctly with earplugs blocking out only some of the loud hum of the C130 I was strapped up in the cargo bay of? A quick look at my coworker, dressed in just as many layers as me, confirmed that I had. What did we get ourselves into?

Not quite the same experience I had on Turkish Airways just a few weeks ago, but I found it somewhat reassuring that I could see my bag stacked on a pallet 10 feet away so I knew it was on board. Shoot the fact that the bathroom was a curtain and a bucket didn't even phase me because I was finally on my way to Rota!

The flight experience was sure something I'll never forget. Think old war footage with soldiers in the planes and that was pretty much us. Well, not quite between having to rely on my pilot coworkers to maneuver my seat-belt and keep telling me what was next, I have never felt like such a rookie flyer. Of course I didn't look like a homeless person standing in a small huddle with a beanie tight over my head, hands jammed into my jacket pockets  like some of the guys did. Some of us seriously wondered if they were going to light our luggage on fire to keep warm. (Yeah, it was really cold!)

The flight home was better for me because I know people and made my way up to the cockpit. Yes- it was awesome! How many times in one's life do you get to see the view from the sky out of the front window? And? There was heat up there so as I defrosted and chatted with the guys I just had to keep reminding myself that I was several thousand feet about the ground and not to panic and grab any of the hundreds of switches lining the ceiling and panels. The best part? I was actually still up there as we made our approach into Naples and landed. So many things need to take place to land and for once I got to see behind the scenes. I <3 my pilots.

So no, I didn't just fly up and back to Rota to log time riding as cargo. I headed up with several coworkers to go meet with the crew aboard the USNS SPEARHEAD, MSC's first of 10 Joint High Speed Vessels. She's not your average boat in capabilities or appearance...but she's really impressive. For you non Navy types, here's Katie's summary of JHSV- it's a really fast moving platform that can be outfitted with different modules depending on the mission. Best part? It doesn't cost nearly as much as ones built in the past! Inside, it really reminded me of the ferry we took to Sicily- complete with open cargo bay and lots of seats for the passengers. (If you want to read more, you should probably Google it and you'll find one of the publications that our PAO team has put out there.)

I spent the better part of a day touring the ship...hanging out on the bridge, climbing ladders down in the belly of the ship to see the engines, generators, and shafts. Our tour guide? The ship's Master, another fabulous CIVMAR that I've been able to meet with my gig here at MSC. I love it when they take time, my boss as well, to explain to me exactly how things work because should there be an issue and that funding document crosses my desk I a) know who I'm helping out, and b) know more or less what that #4 generator or shaft seal is.

Despite not securing a good spot to stow away, I was able to pick up a coin to commemorate this trip and maybe one day if there are more than 10 of these floating around the ocean to tell my kids I stepped foot on the first one after she made her first trek across the Atlantic to Rota where it was our office who supported her during her time in this part of the world.

Yes. I do hear myself. I'm not only talking about ships, but I'm excited about them. I'll be honest, some times after a ship tour, which reminds me about my time at sea, I can't help but wonder if I really belong behind a desk all day. And I think it's very clear my time as a DA Girl are behind me as I now speak Navy more fluently than Army.

Naples Bucket List

When I first arrived in Naples May of 2011, I had a list called "Getting Outside the Wire." The list was formulated while I was living "within the wire" in TLA (my hotel living for 90 days) to make sure I started right away to escape the comfort of the base and really experience Naples during my tour. I'm proud to say that I've accomplished nearly everything on that list over the past few years.

So now what?

Oh, it's time for another list! This time though? It's the list of everything I'll kick myself if I don't get these things done before I leave Naples. I'm throwing it out there so that y'all still in Naples can add your most memorable trips/site seeing tours and also so that those of you already out of Naples can add your 2 cents. I want to know what you have missed the most and/or what you wish you had done/bought before leaving.

Trips to Take

• Pisa & Lucca
• Nove (more dishes?)
• Tuscany Wine Weekend 
• Etruscan Caves/Tomb
• Greece: Athens

Must See

• San Gennaro Crypt
• Santa Chiara Cloister

Things to Buy/Find

• Lava Table
• Large damigiana (clear) & stand
• Large olive jar (for punch bowl)  
• Wine for shipment- get feedback from dad for caretaker % 

Did You Come for the Turkey Too?

I still don't know why Turkey is called Turkey, but I think it's a little inaccurate. I mean, before we even reached our hotel, no less than 4 kitties were spotted from our VIP car. I already mentioned that our first night we counted 21! The count just shot up from there, even when we were careful not to add all the ones we saw in the same areas as to not to double/triple count some of the kitties.

I didn't see a single turkey on our trip. Not even on a menu. 

The cats of Istanbul were all very friendly and with the exception of a few, most had plenty of padding on their bones and didn't look too mangy. Nico's double was one that had an wound and it made me feel so guilty I left him home alone for another long weekend.

It wasn't until our second day of markets did we realize that like most items at the Egyptian Market could you also buy dog food, cat food, and bird seed by bulk. Later that evening walking back from the other side of the water, we saw more than a few kitties sneaking under the tarps at these stalls. Smart kitties.

Of course the visitors like us who smuggle out left of food to feed kitties on the walk back doesn't hurt their cause at all. It seemed that every shop had a cat guarding it. In the hippodrome area there were even tubs of water and piles of food left out! So despite me not only highlighting the fact there were so many kitties and you know, all the pictures showing me playing/feeding with them I'm not alone in my efforts! I'm just sad I couldn't bring one of the puff balls we found the last night when I was sharing cheesy bread with them. 

Hey Lady

Hey Lady.

California movie star! 

Beautiful. Perfect. Welcome.

A face without freckles is like a night's sky without stars.

Hello your majesty.

Do you need a body guard? 

This is the second time I've seen you today; the first time you were in my dreams.

Then of course there were lots of variations of "let's go grab a drink," "call me tonight," and "you're beautiful." Seriously. This is worse than Italy.

Of course when they are trying to sell you something it's just the kick off to the cultural past time of pazarlik (bargaining). And here at the markets there is no time to catch up to the learning curve!

Kapalı Carşı (The Grand Bazaar)

This is one of the oldest and largest covered bazaars in the world, and wandering around it is worse than using an out of date GPS map in downtown Naples. Even when the traffic patterns keep changing on account of road work!

After the Ottoman invasion in 1453, Sultan Mehemet II established the bazaar in which cloth and textiles were originally sold by nomadic peoples. Over the years other markets joined near to form the large complex seen today, although the distinct areas for various merchandise still remains, it is a little blurry with many vendors branching into general touristy crap. 

We probably only covered 10% of the place on account of being directionally challenged. It's tough for someone who relies on landmarks to know where she is when every other booth looks the same! And before you start passing judgement on my "being directionally challenged" statement, I'd like to explain that there's about 4,000 stalls tucked along the 61 streets and it's so big that you can spot it from the air. Plus the distractions of pretty lights, soft scarves, and guys calling out "hey lady" adds to your level of stress. And as if that's not enough...you don't want to look to much at the vendors or the items because then the "hey lady" turns into "looking is free" which then results in feeling terrible as you walk away and you know they are still speaking to you, even if it's not in a language you understand. We did see various sections: jewelry, textiles, ceramics, clothes, & general tourist stuffs.

My case in point? I was looking for a gift for one of my friends. A booth looked promising and so I was led to an itty bitty room with thousands of scarves. When I didn't see anything that would work we thanked them for their time and left. Well, we tried. "Ali", my soon-to-be Turkish boyfriend, offered to show us jijim. Um what?

Dangit Katie, why do you always want to learn about things?

And that's how we ended up sitting on the couch and beautiful woven blankets were spread out, all over the room.  "Ali" showed us the various "California Party Blankets" as we sipped hot apple tea. Jijim are from Anatolia and still handmade by women using looms. They are often made as part of a bride's hope chest and as such, often two matching ones are made- one to take and one to leave at home with her family. All are unique depending on the region and woman creating them. And they are beautiful!

Between sharing his family's story, the culture of these blankets we learned that "Ali" had lived in New York, and then asked if I was a lawyer because it's clear I am a strong woman. Really? Well, he was a lawyer out there (allegedly) until he moved back home to help with the family business of the 6 carpet shops, a few restaurants, and a hotel.

When I asked about the stack of fabric still on the shelf he showed me the beautiful silk squares of fabric. I laughed and made a comment that  my dog would get on it and ruin it. Hey, why should I be totally honest with the guy? I bet he wasn't 100% honest with me! Turns out he has a cat. That sleeps with him every night. And then he showed me the pattern of the one he's had for 13 years on his bed, and offered to show it to us if we came over to his house. Ha. Lawyer turned business man? Deadly combination.

After over a hour sitting, making small talk, flirting, trying not to totally insult him on making him drop the price but not paying nearly what he wanted me to for the 4 items we reached a price and drinks later at his restaurant. Oops. Totally didn't keep that date but it knocked another $50 off the price.

Even after the sale we sat and chatted over another round of apple tea, took pictures, and heard more about the life of a millionaire in Istanbul. Oh and I learned his real name is Sela. See? I told you I didn't think he was telling us the truth! His business card did in fact show a longer name but it started with Sela, so I guess we were finally in that point of our relationship I could learn his real name? 

As we got up to leave he presented me with a scarf he picked out to match my outfit. Aw, apparently I either made an impression, he was happy to have made his first sale of the day, or, most likely, I didn't do as good as I thought I had. Oh well. I love what I got and am happy with the price I paid for the items and all the entertainment I had along the way. Sometimes the best souvenirs from a trip isn't the item but the story behind the item- you know?

We continued walking through the market for some time after, basking in all the attention, trying to figure out what else we needed. After asking a million people about the lamps I finally settled on one...partly out of exhausting of playing the "Let's Make a Deal" game, but mostly because I couldn't remember where the booth was with the green one I liked so much! 

Mısır Çarşısı (The Egyptian/Spice Bazaar)

Round two of our market shopping lead us to the Spice Market with a list of booth numbers we had read about and a rough idea about the L-shaped building filled with vendors selling spices, dried fruit, and lokum (Turkish delight). 

Much calmer than the Grand Bazaar, the Egyptian Market has only been around since 1660. It was originally constructed as part of the nearby mosque to help fund the upkeep of the mosque. The name, Egyptian Market, comes from the fact that many of the items sold in the market were routed through Cario.

We walked up and down the market most of the vendors had the same bins and piles of spices- and giving us samples which turned out to be our lunch this afternoon. Our first stop was booth #51 where we tasted several spice options but ended up walking out with various types of tea: Istanbul tea, apple tea, anit-stress tea, spicy tea. Oh and a 1/2 kilo of lokum for the coworkers (that's still sitting on my desk unopened....oops.)  

We stopped in a several booths within the market, but I think we had more success on the surrounding street, outside the actual market structure. This is where I scored on some curry powder and spicy meat seasoning at a fraction of the price it was being sold for inside. My favorite part of this booth? When I said I was from California, they guy said "California almonds" as he pointed to the bin of almonds. 

Hands down the experience of this market was the last booth we hit. A tiny older man pulled us in and just started handing us pinches of various spices after listing off about 15 states for some reason. The first one he handed us was the Istanbul seasoning which from what I could tell consists of peppers, oregano, parsley, salt, paprika and some things along that line. It sure packed a punch! Our next sample? I wish I had a recording of this because even with each time I retell it, I can't help but laugh and then really question my rationale for going along with it...

Vendor: Here, try this. He extends his index finger with a tiny clear crystal on it. 
Me: Um, what is it?
Vendor pushing it onto the palm of my hand: Lemon salt
Me looking at Marlene to make sure she knows what's going on I cautionsly try it: It is salt! And it's very lemon flavored. Marlene, you've got to try this! 

Turns out you can use this salt for just about anything: fish, salad, soup, meat, gin & tonics (yeah, I was hooked on that one), and if you drink it daily for a few months it's a good cleanse. Sold! I'll take 100grams, vacuumed packed. By the way is the best prop ever when retelling your tale to all your coworkers about the random crystal tasting you did with their coworker you were responsible for.    

Over all, both markets proved to be worth the hours we spent walking through them. It was not only a great way to leave our money in the city, but also to chat with locals and really experience a portion of the culture. The vendors took time explaining their wares over coffee and tea and were never pushy! Next time I go back (yep, I love it that much, I'm already talking about the next time) I may just do a shopping weekend with a map so I can make sure I don't get lost in my quest for the best deal.