American Gladiators

Okay. Maybe not so much. I mean, I do have a brace on my knee!

This weekend I checked out ancient Capua (Santa Maria Capua Vetere). If Capua sounds familiar maybe it's because you recall a certain gladiator named Spartacus. Spartacus trained as a gladiator in the ancient Capua. Lots of gladiators did actually as it was the training grounds. As a community with a love hate relationship with Rome, its loyalty to the Empire faltered over the years, especially during war time. At one point, Capua severed winter holding grounds for Hannibal during his attack on Rome. In its time, Capua was a big deal! It was the second most important city in Italy (second to Rome) due to the number of soldiers it produced for war time campaigns. The Appian Way (Via Appia) which was the main road to Rome cuts right through the city.

Unfortunately I had no time to put together a gladiator outfit together for our visit to the ancient gladiator training grounds. (You better believe this will not be a mistake made twice!) What remains now of the anfiteatro built in the time of Augustus is still impressive. The once 4 story structure could hold 60,000 spectators.  The current structure was built between the 1st and 2nd century AD, most likely over the existing type of structure. And even better? Unlike the coloseo in Rome, you can wander through the passages below! And this isn't a tiny structure either, it's the next largest one to it's famous Roman relative.

Of course we didn't realize this as first and as we stood on the floor of the area, thinking about the deaths that took place under our feet we realized there were a ton of passages below. "I want to go there! And hey, since this is Italy there has got to be a way." As we wandered through the arena I spotted stairs going down into darkness so naturally I took them. At the bottom of the stairs a metal gate blocked the doorway, however several of the bars had been moved bent so that you could easily pass through. Alright, maybe not so easily, but I had my 'sploring jacket on so it had to be done.

Once through the fence, we found ourselves in a land of columns, neatly arranged between channels (mini moats). Green moss grew under the filtered sunshine streaming in and the air smelled like moist dirt. Shortly after being an "alley" of columns I realized we were on a set of a horror film so scurried back over to the others and we vowed to stay in a pack. It made the demon possessed coos from a pigeon a few minutes later way less frightening...once we realized what was making that terrible sound.

The different sections are still a mystery as what they were really used for, but in my mind they were small rooms for animals and the gladiators. We passed column after column and finally realized that we had 2 options to get back up to the ground level. As in a much more visitor friendly way to tour the underground passages. See? Totally "legal" touring method and we had more fun taking the path less traveled!
Next time, there has to be a next time so I need to show up with my triton and net, come visit with us and we can re-create Spartacus' Rebellion!

Local Old Stuff- Day Trippin' in Baia

Keeping in the theme of I live in Italy, I need to see more of it, paired with curiosity of places I drive by every day- this weekend's destinations were all within 5 miles of my house. Yep. These places are in my backyard! Week #3 of "Ancient Civilizations" tour consisted of 2 spots, several adorable Napoli kitties, and lots and lots of Greek and Roman ruins. Today was all about Baia.

Baia or Baiae, was the seaside get-a-way for the rich and famous in the end of the 1st century B.C. Roman nobility built villas to spend their otia (spare time) at the thermal baths, soaking up the views, and enjoying the sulfur stink steam. Surprisingly enough, there are plenty of references to this portion of "the boot" but even more of the greater Phlegraean Fields. I'm sure I've already bragged, but let me one more time. Those locations we read about in The Odessy or The Aeneid or read about in mythology class? River Styx? Sibyl's Cave? Um yeah. That's where I live. As like most of the area, due to all the volcanic activity, the current shore line is much further inland than it was in those times. In fact, a lot of Baia is underwater. (Yep. There's a tour for that and it's on the list.) At any rate, we had our two spots picked out for today. So, grab your toga bcause we're off to socialize with the nobility of Baia!

Castello di Baia
If you've headed out anywhere near my way (aka the Middle of Nowhere), chances are you've seen the huge rectangular building atop the cliff by the water on your way. This building? Well, before serving as my "almost home Katie" mark,  the castle on the hill was a destination for lots of others- possibly summer home to Julius Caesar, but more likely Nero's home. (Agrippina, his mother IS buried nearby after all.)  In the late 15th century, the Aragonese built over the older Roman parts more of what we see today. It's purpose? To serve as a warning for pirates to stay away!  The size and the steep walls right against the coast line seemed to have done just their job.

Today, the castle holds lots and lots of artifacts found in this area- jewelry (don't touch those cases, they're equipped with alarms), various pieces of statues (there was an entire fingers & toes/feet case), urns, dishes, you know, all the regular stuff. Yep. I said it. "The regular stuff." It's hard to keep getting excited about all of it when you can't go anywhere in this town without seeing old stuff. It was pretty impressive though when I remembered it was in it's original location. But, truth be told I was more impressed with the view of the bay and the amazing water color. Hey, it's all about location, location, location when building a home- right?

Alright, time to get into our chariots for a quick gallop down the road. Past the Temple of Diana and up the hill near the Temple of Venus. Why? We're hitting the spa!


Terme di Baia
Okay, so maybe it's not quite the spa. Part of what makes this area of the boot spectacular are all the volcanoes. Just don't think about the super volcano that I live above... All that heat under the surface causes plenty of warm mineral water that Roman engineers diverted into pools and create steam chambers.

These now ruins are in 5 sections which include temples, pools, theater, and villas. Nope. It's not a tiny place! And better yet? Like so many of our other sites, you just get to explore all over, climb on the stairs, go 'sloring down the dark halls under the amphitheater. Come to think of it? I'm getting rather spoiled. I can already see it now when I'm back in the states: Park Ranger: Excuse me ma'am. You can't climb in Lincoln's lap. In fact, haven't you been banned from all National Parks and monuments? Me: Mi dispiace, pero no parlo inglese. Okay, maybe I'm not that terrible but at times I almost feel guilty for walking on the ancient mosaic floor, but there are just so many things they have much better preserved they don't care. Talk about walking through history and discovering it for yourself. With these sites left in various states of excavation and ones like these practically void of other visitors, it's like I'm making these discoveries. Yep. I do need an Indiana Jones hat!

With most of this place crumbling apart, there were 2 hands down winners (besides the adorable orange tabby kitties): In one of the alcoves we "discovered" a fig tree growing upside down. The second thing? Well it took a little more patience in truly discovering it. Ready for some Lori & Katie Non-Running Adventure insights? When the two of us are out and about, especially in places like these it goes something like this:

OOOOOOh. Look at that ______. Lori being the professional photographer she is starts clicking shot after shot while I'm done after one, maybe two. While she carries on, I start looking around for paths, doorways, anywhere that calls me. These are my 'sploring times which almost always results in me calling out to Lori to hurry it up to see the new thing I "discovered." 

On this particular day she was checking out the pomegranates the size of softballs while I was still being a science nerd with the tree. Once I headed her direction I found a doorway, so of course I went in. What I found? A pool of what looked like rain water with goldfish. We were amazed! Then we continued walking towards a temple but given that it was a few minutes before closing the path we needed was closed. Actually, it was a locked door. Paths we walk around. That's when we saw it. The most amazing dome shaped complex without a path leading up to it. Grrrrr. Well, when we did an about face (after I jumped out of the way of lizards) I went to go see a blocked off area, and that's when I found it- the entrance to the dome.

This dome? Turns out it's the Tempio di Mecurio which has an amazing pool, complete with more fish. In the 17th century people started to call it Temple of Echo because the acoustics are amazing. The sunlight streaming in through the windows and opening at the top cast amazing shadows and let that water sparkle. While doing my research afterwards, turns out that when this was built it was the largest dome in the world until the Pantheon was built in 128. Isn't that crazy?! I think so. It's about 71 feet in diameter just to give you an idea of how awe striking this place is.

In summary? Baia was the place to be in the height of the Roman Empire. When the writers referred to it as a place filled with vices and luxury? You better believe Emperor Hadrian, Julius Caesar, Nero, and others we learn about in history spent time here and it's no wonder- it's a beautiful area! 

Jammed Packed 48 Hours

In the past several months I've discovered many things about how I travel.

I travel light.
I travel cheaply.
I'll sacrifice a meal if that means I can fit another site in and a gelato stand is located.
And if I'm traveling- I'm definitely a go getter. I'm going to climb the towers, check out the churches, visit shops, spend time in a museum...well, you get the point.

Turns out my cousin is very similar with her methodology so when I picked Tink up with one of her friends early on a Saturday morning at Port of Bari telling them our itinerary, she didn't even bat an eye.

Maybe that's because she was being too entertained as I talked back to the GPS  to get to our first destination of Alberello as I heard all about their Croatia travels in the week prior. We finally found the part of the town we were looking for, hit up my favorite trullo for some fabulous liquor samples, and explored the church. The trulli neighborhood isn't all that large, so once our arms were full of shopping bags we found a place to grab lunch.

They were healthy.
I wasn't.
They ordered salads.
I ordered fries.
They got a huge bowl of green lettuce.
I got fries.

We then proceeded to cut across to my side of Italy. Our route looked something like this and let Ravi explore a bunch of new roads. I can only say something like that too because whenever I thought I was going the right direction, somehow it turned out being incorrect. Oh well. It's all part of the adventures and the girls got to experience first hand drivers in Southern Italy. We stopped in Positano for a break in driving, a touch of shopping, and gelati. When in doubt, gelato is the correct answer.

After ending up in downtown Naples on a Saturday evening, Ravi kissing the bumper of a car in front of us, and fighting a ton of traffic...we finally made it home to Nico. He was a little wary of the extra two people walking in with me, but a peace offering was given and all was well with the world. From that point on he was a goof and decided he could hang out with us as we enjoyed 4 pizzas prepared for us (by Joe of course) over hearing about the latest neighborhood drama.

A few short hours later, rested, showered, we trekked back out to Ercolano, another community destroyed by Mt. Vesuvio. It was a treat to have someone else telling me about what we were looking at, even if a lot of the Italian was Spanish sounding. Once we explored every nook and cranny within the escacvation site it was time to head back to Naples for the speedy tour around the Old Town.

We may have sat and ate for some time, but so much of the Italian culture is built around the tradition of eating and sharing meals, it seemed appropriate. As far as specific reactions and some of the crazy experiences, well I'm going to let Tink share those with you. Why? Well, at this point I think I'm immune to some of the craziness of Naples so it's more fun to read about a first timer's reaction than mine.

100% Real

Over the summer one of my coworkers picked up this really annoying saying that he felt the need to bring back it Italy with him:

Hey, I've got a question. (Long pause) Are you for real?

As annoying as it is to be asked multiple times  a week if "I'm real" or not when I speak words that he often doesn't want to hear, I've found myself asking myself on multiple occasions if this life of mine is real. The funny part about it, I know it is. This is my life and it's all REAL.

Well, today was another "is this really my life" sort of days. It started off by me actually watching the sunrise in my bed (nope, still woke up at 0400 but refused to get up). Ask anyone who has actually be on my patio, the pictures have nothing on the real deal of my view. Over 365 days of watching the sunrise, I'm still caught in awe in the mornings on just how fabulous the sky lights up; especially those mornings when I can watch the stars fade. Totally worth being a minute or two late for work!

Next stop I was headed to the main train station with the Minions' mom to get her back to the minions. As I chose to ignore the GPS for the signs, and then went back to listening to the GPS I realized that I have some trust issues. Well...maybe more like control issues? Seriously. How many times I have written about me and the latest battle with my GPS? Luckily I wasn't solo during this adventure, but with the time crunch to get her to the station in time for the train....we may have flown through Chinatown. Like I told her...I only have one speed here in Italy. It's a tad slow for the autostrade, but in towns it's just fine. Yes. She made it and when I listened to the GPS on the way out, I even recognized where I was. I mean, prision in the middle of town is my landmark for SHOE ALLEY.  But that's tomorrow's adventure.

The final destination of the day was the Cuma ruins. A place I've been wanting to go for about 6 months but due to crummy weather or sheer laziness on the weekends it hasn't happened. For a while we even talked about going after work over the summer, but never made it. But that's okay, because we made it today and couldn't have planned a better fall day to go check out this part of my backyard.

Literally. I drive by this ancient city every day on my way to work. (Pretty cool that I can say that- right?) At any rate, we finally showed up and conquered the city. It was rather amazing to see all that was back there- tunnels, towers, steps all holding the history of this area from a long (long) time ago. Even while playing "use your imagination" to recreate the temples and towers that once stood tall, covered in marble and other stone where only rubble now exists.

As far as the history of the city and everyone who lived/built there is still lost on me and I'll probably pay more attention next time around. Yep. Next time around. With admission being so cheap and giving you enterance to other monuments and ruins in my area of the peninusula, I think I found my new "time to get away and think" place. It's for sure made it to my "we've gotta go check this place out when you're in town" list.

Roman Holiday!

So I may not be Princess Katie, but that doesn't mean that I don't crave an escape from all these trainings...meetings...required certificates...forms...meet and greets...house-hunting...you get the drift. Granted I didn't fall asleep on a bench and meet a tall, dark and handsome reporter who showed me around Rome, but I did see many of the same sights. I say some because if Rome wasn't built in a day, there is no way I can see all of it (or even a fraction of it) in a mere day. 

My day in the Eternal City was jammed packed. Of my sette to do items, I crossed off cinque. So what did I do? Keep reading! 

Piazza del Popolo The People's Plaza  
My day stared off in North Rome at the Piazza del Popolo. This main square not only marks the center of the city but also the traditional north entrance to the city. In the center of the square there is an obelisk surrounded by those adorable lion fountains. Like most piazzas there are churches and other fountains that surround the large area. I didn't check out any of these churches because I was nervous of being delayed/I figure someone else is going to want to check them out so I'll be back one of these days. (Apparently these churches have a ton of artwork and I believe it based on their doors and walls.)

At the south end of the plaza there are 3 roads leading into the city but I think Via del Corso was the most interesting. Why? Well if you look down it you can see clear to the Victor Emmanuel Monument. Since I come from the land of curves, turns, and hills this concept is somewhat crazy.

Cappuccin Crypt
I don't think you can think "Rome" without the mental imagery of the various sights and random historical events. Well that's how my brain operates and in my mental picture of Rome it includes the catacombs. Although there are lots of famous ones to visit, I picked this crypt instead? Why? Well, you can't take pictures so I have to rely on the internet to provide you images. Seriously- check out that link. I'll hold. 

Yes. Those are bones! Isn't it amazing? Those are the bones are from Capuchin monks that died during the lifetime of the crypt. They would exhume the the longest buried monk to make room for the newly deceased who was buried without a coffin. The bodies spent 30 years decomposing in the soil, before being exhumed and used in decorating the walls.

*If you haven't lost your appetite and interesting side note- Cappuccinos are named after these Capuchin Monks who wore brown robes.  

Confession time. I found myself identifying the various bones in each arrangement (apparently I did retain some of that anatomy knowledge).  Another confession? I didn't think this was creepy at all. Well, I did when I started to think about how when those who were arranging the bones may have said, "hey, please pass me Brother John's right fibula" but other than that I was just in awe. Talk about being resourceful! 

After walking through all the crypts, you find yourself in the 6th one looking at scene of judgement day. On the ceiling a skeleton holds a grim reaper scythe and a chandelier of bones hangs overhead. The words "What you are now we used to be; what we are now you will be..." leave you with an oh-so somber reminder that life here is only temporary.  

Trevi Fountain
Yep, the fountain you throw a coin over your shoulder so you can make it back to Rome. It was crazy busy in the late morning already but coins were a-flyin' and the fountain was a-flowin'. Definitely a touristy place but on another visit it will be a great hang out place with a scoop of gelato (or two) and a fabulous friend to chat with while we comment on the folks passing by.

Colosseum
For years I've heard stories about how dirty and crowded this part of Rome is. I've had images in my head of this enormous, smog covered ancient building in the middle of a round about (because they had to build the road around it) with cars 3-4 deep driving around. Please tell me I'm not the only one?! Well, the Colosseum was dirty and falling apart (it is kind of old) but it's still a remarkable piece of architecture- especially when you remember when it was built!

I ended up caving and paying for a tour, mainly because I didn't want to wait in the long ticket line. The tour was actually pretty good and filled in some of the gaps that my reading had left. From inside I couldn't help by be in shock that this ancient building and what took place on the arena and in the passageways below it. I couldn't get enough of all the views and arch ways either- so here is a major collection of the pictures.

Palatine Hill/Roman Forum
By this time in the day my feet were covered in ancient civilization dust, my face had less makeup on it than it started with, and my arms had gained a ton of freckles. I was still functioning, but in the heat of the sun I was fading fast and really didn't want to be looking at piles of rubble pretending I was in a one time 150,000 square foot palace. I had to laugh when I heard two little kids complaining at all the destroyed buildings. The little girl suggested that they tear down the half buildings and use all the remnants to build something new... I don't think she understood exactly what we were touring.  

While waiting for this tour to start up I did some walking on Via del Fori Imperiali and checked out some of the Roman Forum remains. This street was also scattered with statues of famous Romans. Somehow I ended up at the Victor Emmanuel Monument where I saw even more impressive buildings and snapped more pictures of my favorite sights.

Over all, my first to Rome was amazing! The city is incredibly easy to navigate, there is no shortage of sights, and I found most of the locals to be incredibly helpful. True I still have a ton to explore but this trip left me craving more trips that way and also to brush up on my ancient civilizations history. I'll keep doing the research for when you visit since you know it's always better to share amazing stuff like this with someone.

Arco Felice

Yep, that is a Roman aqueduct. Well, a part of one. After being here for almost a month, I still can't get over the fact that while driving I look out the window and see remnants of buildings from civilizations older than the country I just came from. Shoot, most the time they are even older than the oldest buildings I've seen in other parts of Europe.

This one will actually become a part of my daily commute should I end up living in Monte Di Procida as the road passes under it. Yeah, told you all it was an amazing place. On my way up the hill I pass by half of a temple for one of the Roman gods, possibly Diana. It's amazing to me that these buildings are still standing!

Okay, Erin I still owe you way more but I just wanted to let you know that I'm working on this tasking.