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Saturday, March 3, 2012

A Day in Caserta

I'm lucky to work in an office where my coworkers actually want to hang out after our "mandatory 40 hours a week." Of course depending on who I'm hanging out with greatly varies the activity we're doing: shoe shopping, coaching, dinning out, trekking through France, wine tastings, sipping coffee, sight seeing. Regardless of the activity though, it's always fun to see how they act outside of our "fixin' ships" roles and I love hearing the stories they have to tell me. 

During a send off department lunch on Friday for other 1/2 of the financial department for 3, yes 3, months my boss invited me to join him and his wife on their Saturday Caserta adventure. So, I accepted the invite. The plan was to hit the Caserta market and then the Royal Palace before doing some shopping at either a different supermarket up that way or stopping by one of the usuals. Sounded like a great plan and it was executed...but this is Italy so maybe not quite as advertised!

Once I met up with them this morning it was mandatory café time. (Sign #1 we're going native.) We then headed north about 20 miles to Caserta. We successfully found the Saturday market that had just about anything you were looking for: shoes, purses, clothes, fabric, produce, fish, cheese, bread, candy, kitchen gadgets. Then again, it also had a lot of stuff you probably didn't need like used shoes for 1E a pair. We walked the rows and rows of booths. After much debate about a lemon tree I left without it but that's because I know I can find one a little closer to home. Leaving with fresh artichokes- apparently it's artichoke season around here, blood oranges, melanzane, my boss and his wife left with an oregano plant, dried spices, and a pair of fabulously discounted (unused) pair of boots for her. My boss later explained to me that he only has 2 pairs of shoes. Is that even possible?!

As we walked back to the car (right, left, right, left) we apparently missed one of our right turns. Walking through the streets we began seeing businesses rather than the neighborhoods we had originally meandered through. Totally worth it through in my opinion because it's not every day you get to see something as amusing as this. (Eyes have been blocked to protect the identity!)

Our next stop was the Royal Palace of Caserta. Well, it was once Catherine the GPS unit got us there. She was taking us some crazy route and finally realized what we were doing...as we were parking. It was refreshing to realize that I'm not the only one that has power struggles with my GPS.

Since they had already been to the gardens we took the tour of the apartments. That is after another café. Hey, this palace is really a palace and we needed the energy to walk through room after room. Alright, so now it's time for your Southern Italy history lesson. Today's information is brought to you from a few of the tour books I received as departure gifts- so thank you once again!

Caserta was built in the middle of the 18th century by King Charles III (Bourbon King) decided to create a new center of administration. He lifted the name from the nearby city Caserta Vecchia, the medieval village which I visited last summer. This plan was heavily influenced by the need to move the power away from Palazzo Reale as it was rather vulnerable by sea and the British had threatened to attack. Once the threat passed, the plans for the building turned into more of a palace, with Versailles as a model and building began in 1742. Problem was, when Charles III returned to Spain in 1759 to become King, construction slowed. By this time, they spent more time working on the gardens. The palace by stats: 1,200 rooms, the biblioteca contains over 10,000 volumes, the nativity scene has 1,200 figures hand crafted from the 18th century and dressed in clothes made by the queen and her ladies in waiting.

 As we walked through the rooms, I found myself wanting to lay on the floor to really take in the magnificent murals and intricate molding on the ceiling. Granted, there was so much gold oozing off most walls it was icky but then again, some of those other rooms had beautiful colors and flowers painted all over.

The clouds and sun created beautiful shadows and natural lighting for some of the rooms. Granted, some of the teal, green, or red rooms really shouldn't have been viewed in bright light but it was fun. Shoot, I even got some decorating ideas for my house...like a canopy bed with a crown holding it all up. Just kidding. That would ruin the view from my window!

One whole room was dedicated to that nativity scene with all 1,200 figurines. It looks a little chaotic but I guess it was a little chaotic the night Jesus was born. This side was the more traditional scene, but as you walked around you began to see families around tables, livestock, water buffaloes, exotic travelers with camels and monkeys. It hands down was the most intricate one I've seen and most of the chapels have amazing ones. In addition to the main one in this room, figures of different sizes were also on display along the perimeter of the room.

I've got to say...I don't think I can call my house  a castle anymore after seeing a real one. But I think I'm okay with that because heating/cooling that place has got to be a nightmare! Plus there were way too many nooks and rooms that Nico would get locked in and it would be days before I could find him. Then again, that garden would be amazing to run around in...

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